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80% Glock 17 Frame - Build Your Own Glock Frame

Anyone building a dedicated 22lr on the compact frame have any difficulties? I've had trouble finding reliable info on the compact frame. A couple of people have posted reviews online with the original full sized frame and had trouble with the locking block needing some additional modification. I want to know if the compact frame, in particular, needs any mods or if you can just slap a 22lr slide on it.

Thanks.
 
I've put about 5k rounds through my g19 p80 with few problems after the first 100 or so rounds (working out fitment / break in). I love the way that gun shoots and points, and so far everyone else does too that has shot it. Yesterday, was carrying it (yes, it has been that trust worthy) and brought it to the range, along with my shield (new FO sights) and 10/22 (new red dot on it). I guess I trust it too much. Fire a round, mag falls out. Changed grip to weak hand, mag still falls out. Try various mags. Still the same problem. Another problem, can't replicate when NOT firing a shot (can't force mag from gun with slide on or off, racking, wacking, etc.).

New OEM mag release button (it has an after market extended, may be part of the problem) and spring now on their way. LIKELY the spring has lost its retention ability. or the mag release, which has always been "tight" is not fitting mags properly. Of course, I cleaned it the last time I shot it. Should have known better, never clean a glock, lol.
 
As much as I don't want to ask, I rather be shamed here then find myself in potential trouble with the law. After all the reading about building a Polymer80 I am still left with some detailed questions in regards to the process here in Massachusetts to stay compliant.

- Are you legally required to register a P80. If yes, at what point are you required to register it? 1. After removing the plastic tabs, and drilling out the pin holes. 2. Within 7 days after you have confirmed the lower is fully functional. (For most folks who are questioning this same process, I feel are concerned in an event they are found in possession of this where it is somewhere between 80-100% built)
-Serializing the P80: Are there any requirements on how it should be serialized for example the depth of the markings.

I understand the aspects of how FFL dealers are not able to sell/register glocks to civilians, however it is legal for civilians to own in Massachusetts. Also how civilians are able to build and register Polymer80's by submitting a FA-10 form.

Your time, and thoughts are much appreciated!

From what I understand these questions can be answered through a call to the District Attorneys office.
 
As much as I don't want to ask, I rather be shamed here then find myself in potential trouble with the law. After all the reading about building a Polymer80 I am still left with some detailed questions in regards to the process here in Massachusetts to stay compliant.

1. Are you legally required to register a P80.
1a.If yes, at what point are you required to register it?
i. After removing the plastic tabs, and drilling out the pin holes?
ii. Within 7 days after you have confirmed the lower is fully functional. (For most folks who are questioning this same process, I feel are concerned in an event they are found in possession of this where it is somewhere between 80-100% built)
2. Serializing the P80: Are there any requirements on how it should be serialized for example the depth of the markings.
3. Also how civilians are able to build and register Polymer80's by submitting a FA-10 form.
I understand the aspects of how FFL dealers are not able to sell/register glocks to civilians, however it is legal for civilians to own in Massachusetts.

Your time, and thoughts are much appreciated!

1. Yes
1a. According to MA law, when its capable of discharging a bullet I believe.
i. When completed- There is no requirement to register stripped AR-15 lowers until they are completed- Healey BS aside.
ii. The law makes no exception for confirmations to my knowledge, its when capable of discharging a bullet. I'm not even sure it has to be multiple bullets.
2. ATF has guidelines on this, I *think* its .03" but I'm spitballing off something I read once in passing.
3. Log on to the EFA-10 portal, leave the dealer blank, input the serial number and corresponding data elements and submit.
 
I built one of the 80% PF940v2 (Glock 17).

Went together the first time. Rather than a mill or dremel, etc., I used end nippers like these:

41h8pdREPfL._SX342_.jpg


to cut off the "rail tabs," then used sandpaper wrapped around a flat file to smooth the rest of the way. 320/400/1000/1500/2000 with WD-40 until the rails were "silky smooth." Triangular file then round file for the recoil "plug" area. Hand drill for the three holes. Added a Gen 3 slide and other bits. My "20%" took no more than an hour and a half.

2d1wzsp.jpg


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I had none of the RTB issues some others have reported (slide is super smooth in travel), I think because I paid attention to getting the rails down flush so the locking blocks don't stick up and interfere with the slide.

I did, at first, have a trigger reset issue some others have reported, that is, if I didn't hold the trigger back as the slide cycled, it would reset without fail or issue. If I held the trigger down and cycled the slide, it wouldn't reset.

I was running a stock trigger/trigger bar, Ghost 3.5# connector, stock trigger return spring.

After the first 100 rounds, not one FTF or FTE, but reset was an issue. If I got my finger off the trigger, reset was fine. If I held the trigger back after firing, the gun would not reset. Dead trigger.

With a Ghost 3.5# connector and OEM trigger spring, or the 3.5# connector with a LWD 6# trigger spring, the trigger would not reset if I kept pressure on it while I cycled the slide. Same when I shot the gun; finger off the trigger--reset. Finger on the trigger--no reset.

After I got home and did some more reading, I swapped in an NY1 trigger spring I had laying around, and swapped out the Ghost connector for a LWD 3.5# connector, and the reset was fixed. The takeup is firm, but the break is crisp and light, and the reset is 100%.

I have literally hundreds of rounds through the gun, suppressed and unsuppressed, using MagPul 17 and 21-round magazines, and I've had exactly one FTF--an Aluminum Blazer round that looked pretty sketchy.

Take-up with the NY1 trigger spring is a bit firm, but not distractedly so, and the break is crisp. Reset is short and positive. I actually like the trigger takeup.

Now, who makes a holster for this thing...
 
I can only find the Blade-tech for the G19 (compact) version. Am I missing one there?



Why would I do that?

Yea brownells has the blade tech holster. I like the squared away custom holsters more.

Sorry didnt see you live in a free state.
 
I've tried looking but haven't had much luck finding this answer. In MA, do we need to engrave the makers info on the serialization plate, or just a made up serial number?
 
I've tried looking but haven't had much luck finding this answer. In MA, do we need to engrave the makers info on the serialization plate, or just a made up serial number?

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is you don't need to serialize it. If down the road you decide you want to sell it, then you need to serialize it.

If you want to have it serialized, there's nothing stopping you, and I believe you only need the serial number. I actually contacted someone about having this done to a PF940c frame I just picked up myself.
 
Nothing requires you to serialize the frame when you manufacture a firearm for your own personal use.

Nothing bars you from adding a serial number now or later.

I have yet to find any cite that clearly requires and firearm made for your personal use to be serialized even if you later decide to sell it. IANAL, do your own due diligence on that.
 
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is you don't need to serialize it. If down the road you decide you want to sell it, then you need to serialize it.

If you want to have it serialized, there's nothing stopping you, and I believe you only need the serial number. I actually contacted someone about having this done to a PF940c frame I just picked up myself.

Thanks for the reply. I talked, face to face, with a local gunsmith on the NorthShore and he said he wouldn't touch one, that if he serialized it he would have to put his name on it as he was then contributing to the manufacturing of it. That doesn't seem correct, but also not sure what to believe at this point. I understand they have to be registered in MA, but seems like a serial number would be needed to register it. I guess I need to take a fresh look at the FA10 as sadly I haven't dealt with one of those in years. (Yes, I know they have to be done online now.)
 
Thanks for the reply. I talked, face to face, with a local gunsmith on the NorthShore and he said he wouldn't touch one, that if he serialized it he would have to put his name on it as he was then contributing to the manufacturing of it. That doesn't seem correct, but also not sure what to believe at this point. I understand they have to be registered in MA, but seems like a serial number would be needed to register it. I guess I need to take a fresh look at the FA10 as sadly I haven't dealt with one of those in years. (Yes, I know they have to be done online now.)


The gunsmith sounds like he's full of it; engraving a number on a frame is hardly manufacture. The one I talked to quoted me $65 per location on the frame.

As for the eFA-10, I haven't tried to do one without a serial number. Anyone else know?
 
Thanks for the reply. I talked, face to face, with a local gunsmith on the NorthShore and he said he wouldn't touch one, that if he serialized it he would have to put his name on it as he was then contributing to the manufacturing of it. That doesn't seem correct, but also not sure what to believe at this point. I understand they have to be registered in MA, but seems like a serial number would be needed to register it. I guess I need to take a fresh look at the FA10 as sadly I haven't dealt with one of those in years. (Yes, I know they have to be done online now.)

If a gunsmith does anything on an 80% than it's no longer you manufacturing for personal use. It's the GS manufacturing for you. I can see why he'd want nothing to do with it.
 
If a gunsmith does anything on an 80% than it's no longer you manufacturing for personal use. It's the GS manufacturing for you. I can see why he'd want nothing to do with it.

Even after it's already been milled and assembled? What about stippling?
 
amm5061, you might be better off posing some of these questions to ATF.

To me, stippling is cosmetic at first glance. Engraving, specifically, is NOT. If an FFL/07 does not have the facilities to engrave serials he has to find another FFL/07 that does and apply for a variance that allows the other FFL to do that work. As silly as that sounds, that's the way it is. If the engraver does not have an FFL/07, he either applies for one AND THEN the variance, or he doesn't do the work.

There are a bunch of general purpose machine shops that have FFL's specifically so that they can do certain work for other FFL's.

Seriously, if you're trying to stay within the letter of the law, ask the ATF in writing for an answer in writing.

They'll either answer outright that your plans are illegal or legal or they'll waffle. If they say "legal", file the letter and go ahead. If they waffle or say "illegal" just move on.
 
Even after it's already been milled and assembled? What about stippling?

After it's milled and assembled then it's no longer an 80% is it? But I suspect that regardless of whether it's legal or not, a GS will be unwilling to touch it. It isn't worth their time to get clear information from the ATF and it isn't worth losing their FFL. Just my opinion.
 
I have to say, the last time I looked into 80% Glocks, they were those things with the huge square "checkering" on them.

Was on the YewToob yesterday and the GS G43 clip came on. Whoa! Fascinating!!!!

It's intriguing. If only from a "wow that's sort a cool to do" aspect. It'll still cost you about what a G19 costs in the wild here in MA. Maybe a bit less. I wonder if they'll ever do a Gen4 type frame with inserts.

One thing I did notice is that the middle-finger cutout on the trigger is more generous than a standard Glock. Anyone got an opinion on that? I like it as your hand will come up just a touch more. But is it worth it? Noticable? Good? Bad???
 
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