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80% AR build/build party in Nahsua, NH --LAST CALL--

No more lower processing since the mill is down for maintenance currently. Issues with the DRO's need to be resolved along with a few other things. Not sure how long this will take.

We do plan on having the communal jigs available before the end of this month. Provided Gator9329 brings the one he 'borrowed' (to show someone he said) back up. Otherwise, we'll only have 4 of the 5 communal jigs available.
 
I have a jig in wakefield MA if anyone needs it.if you don't want to drive up to nh for one feel free to pm me.I would be willing to ship it to you also.
I didn't borrow the jig. I have as much right to use it as anyone else in the buy.I have processed a couple of lowers with it as is. I didn't need the mods you and Dave are doing to the other jigs. Maybe we should leave some unmolested.
Has anyone else even used one of the other six (of seven) jigs.
I don't see a problem with having a jig down south.
IF ANYONE SEES A PROBLEM WITH THIS PLEASE POST UP HERE OR PM ME.I AM NOT KEEPING THIS JIG JUST USING IT FOR WHAT WE GOT THEM FOR.
 
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Since they are community jigs for the Ares buy, I don't see why anyone would have an issue with you using it.

Does anyone have any idea what happens to the jigs when everyone is done with them?
 
Goldiggie and I will become the custodians of the 5 Community Loaner jigs. There will be a sticky thread made
to check them out and such. We are making the rest of the mods to the jigs tonight to be able to mount
the spacer block.

Malodave
 
ninemilshooter said:
Since they are community jigs for the Ares buy, I don't see why anyone would have an issue with you using it.

Does anyone have any idea what happens to the jigs when everyone is done with them?
Click to expand...

The jigs (total of FIVE are communal) will be available for future use by NES [green] members. These are NOT limited to use with Ares lowers and such. Depending on what lower they will be used with, though, alterations could be needed. Such as for some billet lowers out there.

Just because seven jigs were purchased doesn't mean all seven are communal. This had been mentioned several times. Dave and I were given one each for hosting the build days. So with five of the seven as communal, and one being in Gator9329's possession, means we (Dave and I) only have FOUR jigs that could be loaned out at any time.
 
Golddiggie said:
No more lower processing since the mill is down for maintenance currently. Issues with the DRO's need to be resolved along with a few other things. Not sure how long this will take.
Click to expand...

bump?
How is everything coming along with the mill?
 
JCV said:
bump?
How is everything coming along with the mill?
Click to expand...

Some work has been done with the DRO's but they're not where they need to be. Believe they'll be repositioned to further away from the motor and wiring harnesses. Need to eliminate EMI from effecting them.

Keep in mind, I've only machined one of my lowers so far. I want to do at least one more before too long (this year). After that, once I manage to get my own mill, and set it up right, I'll let people up (by appointment only).
 
That's fine, just curious really.

I'm sure you went over it ome pages back but how did your lower come out? fire it yet?
 
Still need to get a barrel and muzzle device before I can fire it. It's also still in a 'raw' state. Going to try some options soon to see how it looks. Thinking of using some of the buffing wheels I have and then what anodizing without using any dye will produce. Buffing will be more to smooth out the finish than anything else, since it's a forged lower. I'll still need to clean it/etch the surface before putting it into the tank.
 
Just a minor update...

I have my anodizing system pretty much online and working. I can do one lower at a time with this configuration. I've not, yet, used any dye since I wanted to see how the lower would look without anything added. I like it. Going to use it for my 300 Blackout pistol build.

So, if anyone wants to come on up to anodize their lower, let me know (PM me). I have a little black dye on hand (haven't mixed it up yet). If you get some Rite dye in a color you want to use, bring it and we can do that too.
 
ninemilshooter said:
pictures?
Click to expand...

Soon... Got my 300 Blackout lower going through the process. Already did the DA dip, soak in NaOH, and now it's in the sodium bisulfate under power. Going for a 40 minute anodizing step this time, then will boil it in the sealing solution for 15-30 minutes. After just a few seconds with the battery charger connected, a LOT of bubbles are coming off the lower.

Monday I plan on doing this with a piece of 6061 aluminum to see what I get. The color of 7075 without any dye added is pretty much the same as the raw aluminum. Which is actually what I wanted from this.
 
End result of anodizing the lower, without any dye, is pretty much the same as before going through the process. But, it has the anodized layer on it, so it's protected. Looks pretty nice with the black upper, and other parts, against the aluminum colored lower. I'll take a picture when there's better light and post that up.
 
Now I am really pissed I havnt gotten around to drilling mine out. Then again I already have 2 more lowers that I havnt done jack to yet so I guess I am not in a hurry. maybe I can win the lotto and buy a drill press and time to use it:)
 
spcantwell said:
Now I am really pissed I havnt gotten around to drilling mine out. Then again I already have 2 more lowers that I havnt done jack to yet so I guess I am not in a hurry. maybe I can win the lotto and buy a drill press and time to use it:)
Click to expand...

You need a mill to properly machine these. If you think you can do as good with a drill/drill press, you're wrong. Besides, you can get a solid drill press for pretty short money. A good mill is a different matter.

Images of the lower that's a keeper (properly machined).

After soaking in denatured alcohol (to degrease):
View attachment 78473

Sitting in sodium hydroxide (NaOH):
View attachment 78474

After the NaOH soak/etch:
View attachment 78475

Empty anodizing tank setup:
View attachment 78476

Anodizing tank with item in it and with power flowing:
View attachment 78479

Boiling in the sealing solution:
View attachment 78481

Lower with LPK installed along with buffer tube and upper attached:
View attachment 78483

I did perform the test with the multi-meter to ensure the lower is non-conductive now. Untreated aluminum IS conductive. Now that I know I can get the aluminum into the correct state (without using sulfuric acid for the electrolyte), I'll be doing more anodizing. Just need to get some more sodium bisulfate (PH Down) so that I don't run out. I'll also want to get some more aluminum to use for the cathode.
 
None that I could tell. The rear take-down pin was tight before, and still is. Everything else fit nicely. I think I might stop at 30 minutes for anodizing moving forward. I might be able to do less time with the battery charger I have.

It is interesting how the lower looked coming out of the NaOH solution, then what it looked like in the sodium bisulfate even before the power was turned on.
 
Just so you know, there shouldn't be any build up from Anodizing

Anodizing is a penetrate that changes the surface of the very upper exposed metal. Because of the caustic nature, it could if left in too long erode the metal.

Your's looked good.
 
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Didn't notice any difference in the fit from between untreated and anodized. I figured between the etch bath, and the actual anodizing it would even out (if anything was added). I know things like Cerakote add a tiny amount to the dimension of the item. That was going to be my 'fall-back' plan in case I couldn't get the anodizing to work.
 
You really should have fit issues unless you leave one too long, you could notice that. It will be very obvious the surface will look pock marked and edges will look rough


Cerakote, is something "akin" to a paint, so yup, that will add to a surface. typically, "masking" to fill in or cover areas that you don't want build up on is performed

In such cases, it can be a good idea to keep a small amount of chromate solution to touch up unpainted area using a q-tip to seal and protect them
 
I've seen it posted (on other sites) where people leave items in the anodizing bath for 1-2 hours in order to get a solid treatment. I'm going with about 30 minutes right now. I could probably go less. I chock that up to having a solid power supply (battery charger from the 80's) and a good chemical bath (sodium bisulfate) for the anodizing process.

I'd love to be able to do type III anodizing at some point. But that requires more hardware and uses more dangerous chemicals. I'm glad I found out about using sodium bisulfate, since it doesn't give off caustic fumes/vapors nor hydrogen gas when electricity is added. 100% safe to use in the kitchen (which is where I'm doing it). Worst part, right now, is the sealing of the item. That's only due to needing to boil the solution for that step. Luckily, I have a cheap stainless pot (5 gallon) to use there. I will be looking to get a cheap 12-16 quart pot at some point to use instead.
 
Neuro said:
you can seal it in water... it doesnt have to be sealed in the acid.

unless you want to seal it in a dye solution.
Click to expand...

I used the sealant sold by Caswell the second time. First time was just boiled in DI water. Don't think the sealant is an acid, but I could be wrong there. Either way, I don't think it will do any harm to just boil in the sealant each time. Even when not using any dye.

I do like being able to do this all at home. Not using sulfuric acid makes things a LOT safer and easier to manage.
 

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