642 Refinishing

[Dream to Dream]

The S&W 642 is getting a little worse for the wear. I just finished detail stripping it tonight... the only parts still attached to the frame are the barrel (no way in hell I'm trying to remove that) and the firing pin bushing (because I can't figure out how to remove it). Everything is soaking in cleaner, and before I put it back together, I would like to get it refinished.

Cerakote pops to mind, and I know Paper City Firearms does a good job, not to mention Marshall is a good guy. However, I'm looking to get the toughest finish possible on an aluminum alloy gun, and I don't know if Cerakote is my best choice.

Suggestions?

 

[Gammon]

Leave it alone. Aluminum doesn't rust so it really needs no protection. Any finish you apply will just wear off if this is a carry gun. Save your $.

 

[DMan7]

Burnt bronze


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[Dream to Dream]

Leave it alone. Aluminum doesn't rust so it really needs no protection. Any finish you apply will just wear off if this is a carry gun. Save your $.

It doesn't rust, but it does corrode. Small areas of it already started to once the crappy S&W clear-coat finish wore off. This is a summer carry gun and is carried in my pants pocket. I want to make sure it's protected enough that I don't get areas of oxidization.

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Burnt bronze

If I go with Cerakote, I'm thinking a simple dark grey for the frame and leave the barrel and cylinder the standard brushed stainless.

 

[Mattyd7]

What about anodizing? If its aluminum, that is usually a good option. You could do almost any color, or even clear. Cerakote seems like a fine option too, and maybe cheaper and easier than anodizing a single gun.

 

[Dream to Dream]

What about anodizing? If its aluminum, that is usually a good option. You could do almost any color, or even clear. Cerakote seems like a fine option too, and maybe cheaper and easier than anodizing a single gun.

The problem is an anodizing solution will damage steel, and removing the barrel on a revolver is just not cost effective and a major PITA. I'm leaning towards Cerakote, but I'm hoping there are other suggestions for a tough finish that doesn't require anodizing to adhere to.

 

[TBalls]

How about hard chrome? I think I heard Al would require nickel coating first, but it would get the job done.

 

[cmacclel]

My buddy wore the finish off of his 340PD within a few months. I then duracoated in for him. That lasted about 6 months before it started to look like crap. I then Cerakoted it and besides a few chips from him slamming it into metal (He works in a machine shop) the finish still looks good and it's been over 3 years. His also corroded hardcore right where the frame touches the grip.

Pictures below are from when we went from Duracoat to Cerrakote

 

[Dream to Dream]

When I first looked into Cerakoting, the establishments I looked at cost close to $100 or more to Cerakote a frame. One member PM'ed me about a place that does it for $40, but they are 2 hours away. Any suggestions for the greater Springfield area?

 

[Mattyd7]

Ah good point about the steel barrel WRT anodizing.

Electroless nickel or one of the EN type coatings (NP3 or NiB)? I think you can apply those over aluminum and steel.

 

[71montess]

What about buffing it out like I do with a cheap buffing setup. I do it for car parts and they come out great. Once it shows signs of oxcydation buff again.

 

[Atlas]

If I go with Cerakote, I'm thinking a simple dark grey for the frame and leave the barrel and cylinder the standard brushed stainless.[/QUOTE]

I did this with my 642, except with flat black, the Cerakote is holding up very well. It's starting to wear off a little bit on some places like the corners of the grip from pocket carry but no flaking or chipping and it's been a few years.

 

[Sir_Macadoo]

Alumahyde coating is made for Al alloys. I would consider that.

ETA: any coating is only as good as the surface prep. Sand - or blast it if you can - then clean with acetone or other solvent - and apply the coating in several very light coats.

 

[Gammon]

It doesn't rust, but it does corrode. Small areas of it already started to once the crappy S&W clear-coat finish wore off. This is a summer carry gun and is carried in my pants pocket. I want to make sure it's protected enough that I don't get areas of oxidization.

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If I go with Cerakote, I'm thinking a simple dark grey for the frame and leave the barrel and cylinder the standard brushed stainless.

If the wear on the gun's finish is caused by normal wear and tear (mostly holster), the abrasion that wore the finish off will also continue to polish the alloy and remove any corrosion. Leave it alone and save your $. Any finish you apply, short of industrial hard chrome will probably wear off and leave you right back where you started, just a little poorer and wiser.