4" 357

Ya, I love the look of the 19s. Python aside, I think its the best looking 357 ever made and they seem to be reliable.

Problem is they are going for the same price as a new 586 and supposedly aren't the best with a steady diet of 357. Plus, I would imagine parts are impossible to find if you ever need to replace something.

No, I think most all of the parts are available. Personally, I would take my used 19 over any new 586 or 686. It balances better, and the 586/686 has a new and screwed yoke retention screw that has resulted in cylinders coming off for multiple IDPA competitors.


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Smith can repair most problems, but does not have replacement frames available for older K frames. At least that is what we were told back when they were doing tours and we had several NES group tours.

No, I think most all of the parts are available. Personally, I would take my used 19 over any new 586 or 686. It balances better, and the 586/686 has a new and screwed yoke retention screw that has resulted in cylinders coming off for multiple IDPA competitors.


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According to the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson (3rd Edition) the 64-1 was a special production run of 750 for the OK HP. That was later put into regular production as the Model 65. Similarly, there was a run of Model 10-6 in .357 for the NYSP in 1972. In 1974 it was introduced as the Model 13.

Last I knew the S&W Model 64 was only made in 38 Special. Especially if it is a 64-1
 
Here is another vote for the GP100. I have one and the "built like a tank" description is very apt. As far as the cost, check out Gallery of Guns as you get can get one there for well under $600.
 
I have the GP100 3" which is the gun that I gave my father. I own the 686+ and the 586 - which are my favorites.
 
Hard to go wrong with one of the Original 586's or 686's. That said, if I had to pick just one revolver, the 686+ would be an excellent choice.



Chris
Beautiful, what type of stocks are in the photo? I put pachmyer diamond pro grips on my 357's, helps dampen recoil substantially.

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Beautiful, what type of stocks are in the photo? I put pachmyer diamond pro grips on my 357's, helps dampen recoil substantially.

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The top two are VZ G10 grips (Black Cherry and Predator Green). Bottom is a set of Ahrends in Maple.

Chris
 
No, I think most all of the parts are available. Personally, I would take my used 19 over any new 586 or 686. It balances better, and the 586/686 has a new and screwed yoke retention screw that has resulted in cylinders coming off for multiple IDPA competitors.


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+1
 
Does it have to be 4"? If not the 3" versions of the GP100s are wonderfully entertaining with hotter rounds. I had the stainless with ramp rear sights and I now have a Talo in matte black, both were/are great shooters.
 
I have a 3" Talo 686+ and a 4" GP100.
I put a spring kit in the GP100, shoot it fairly regularly in IDPA/USPSA.
The Smith is nice and I like it, the Ruger is a tank, an easy DIY trigger job.
I keep the 686+ in the safe, shoot the Ruger regularly.
 
I have the new model (post-2014) 66-8, and love it.

It's 4.25" if that matters.



I'm in Grafton if you wanna shoot it before making a decision.
 

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3" gp 100


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I'm not a revolver kinda guy, But when this one came up for sale I couldn't pass it up for some reason. Was owned by someone I knew and I had previously actually shot it. The price was right , even though I was looking for a .45, I came home with a .357 wheel gun that day. Never looked back. Colt Lawman Mark III.IMG_20170220_161902_840.jpg
 
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I very much enjoy my Ruger Match Champion with a Wilson spring kit installed.
 

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This is a great trail gun that is light in a potent caliber: 4.20" Ruger SP101

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My GP100 with Wolf Springs ($10) is a tank. A friend of mine has the 627 and it is also a fantastic revolver. I would go with what your budget allows and whichever feels better in your hand as you cannot make a wrong decision here.
 
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