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22LR?

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So I'm going to be purchasing a 22 semi auto pistol for the wifes B-Day. I'm stuck between the Sig Mosquito and the Walther P22. Does anyone have experience with the two? Or any other suggestions. She did fire a Ruger before but wasn't to impressed with it.

Thanks...
 
I was very unimpressed with the walther p22, the mosquito feels better in your hands...but if you get the mosquito be sure to polish the feed ramps to ensure proper feeding of ammo
 
I've shot both. The Mosquito has a wierd trigger. P22s tend to have more feeding issues. In my opinion the Sig is the better of the two. My Sig eats up Federal Value Packs. It's much more sound.
 
I have no experience with the sig, but I have used a P22, I liked it, no feeding problems for the first 200+ rounds, then it jammed up a couple times.
Overall experience was good, about 5 jams in 600 rounds, in less than an hour. It felt comfortable, and was accurate. I would buy one if I was in the market for a .22
 
I've been asking lots of folks' advice here about gettting a .22 rifle, for Appleseed, also looking up reviews online. Myself I need the SA feed but you might be fine with bolt action.

I have been told over and over again "get a Ruger 10/22!!!" This is from folks at Appleseed and they train people with rifles, mostly .22's, so they know their stuff. One instructor told me this (hope he doesn't mind the quote from a PM,) I was asking about the difference between a Ruger 10/22 and a Remington 597:

Here's a comment that just got posted yesterday in the LTR thread on www.appleseedinfo.org:

I will have to look deeper into getting a semi-auto .22 rifle, Remington has a very nice one, but a bit costly. Will have to look at them harder, after paying the bills.
To be honest, this is the easiest way to get some range time with a 10/22 LTR. How? Your 597 will puke the extractor halfway through an Appleseed and you'll have a prepared Orange or Red Hat hand you a loaner LTR to finish the course of fire.

I have yet to see a 597 make it through a Saturday without some kind of problem. They can't all be maintenance related...

On the other hand, every 10/22 problem I've seen has been maintenance related: ie, they haven't cleaned it since Dad got it in 1974 and handed it over to them 13 years ago.

If you get a chance to get a 597 for around $75, I'd consider it. On the other hand, if you want something reliable, pick up a 10/22 and do the LTR stuff to it.
I will have to look deeper into getting a semi-auto .22 rifle, Remington has a very nice one, but a bit costly. Will have to look at them harder, after paying the bills.
To be honest, this is the easiest way to get some range time with a 10/22 LTR. How? Your 597 will puke the extractor halfway through an Appleseed and you'll have a prepared Orange or Red Hat hand you a loaner LTR to finish the course of fire.

I have yet to see a 597 make it through a Saturday without some kind of problem. They can't all be maintenance related...

On the other hand, every 10/22 problem I've seen has been maintenance related: ie, they haven't cleaned it since Dad got it in 1974 and handed it over to them 13 years ago.

If you get a chance to get a 597 for around $75, I'd consider it. On the other hand, if you want something reliable, pick up a 10/22 and do the LTR stuff to it.
I've seen this happen myself (but didn't realize it was that common!). Never seen a 10/22 break, though. I have a 10/22 with probably 20,000-25,000 rounds through it. Only mechanical problems I've ever had were wearing out the extractor and the hammer. That's about $15 worth of spare parts, and it runs like a champ. It'll be on the line again this weekend and next weekend at Appleseed Shoots, being loaned out (Sting is such a slut... she'll shoot for anyone!).

Plus, you want something like Tech-Sights on your rifle - these are click-adjustable peep sights that are basically the same as on the M16A1. Excellent sights. The fiber optics they have are probably good for minute-of-soda can shooting, but for serious work, I'd go with the Tech-Sights.

So myself I'm sold on the Ruger 10/22, I'm getting one today. You can always modify the stock to however you want if it doesn't feel right, the great thing about a 10/22 is you can modify it until it's virtually unrecognizable [smile]

Finally, if you do want a bolt action don't forget about this really cool Ruger deal that was posted elsewhere on this forum, free Carhartt jacket with purchase of a Ruger Bolt-action!! http://ruger.com/Carhartt/about.html

Anyway that is my experience & the advice I was given anyway, hope it helps for consideration [grin] I know it isn't the one you are considering now & Remington 597 has nothing to do with it, but I say those things in hopes that you might give the Ruger 10/22 another try [grin]
 
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I've owned both. They both have issues. But I sold the P22, while I've still got the Mosquito. Many folks disagree though. I wouldn't buy either without some decent experience with both.
 
id spend a few bucks more and get a sig P gun in .22 then you have an excuse to upgrade later!

I got my p226 in .22 for 500, not sure what p22s are running.
 
I bought a p22 for my wife because thats what she wanted. I asked her how she like the p22 now having it for a few years. Her response to me was this..
"it's fun to shoot. fits my hand well but the accuracy sucks."

The gun she prefers to shoot now is my Buckmark.

I have yet to try a Mosquito so I cant comment on them.
 
So I'm going to be purchasing a 22 semi auto pistol for the wifes B-Day. I'm stuck between the Sig Mosquito and the Walther P22. Does anyone have experience with the two? Or any other suggestions. She did fire a Ruger before but wasn't to impressed with it.

Thanks...

I get Gun Tests magazine and just went on line to get their reviews of your two choices.

Here is the Sig. The Walther will be in a seperate post.


May 2006

A Brace of Full-Size .22 Autos: We Would Buy The Wolverine
You and Buck Rogers will love the Whitney Wolverine from Olympic Arms — an odd but very shooter-friendly gun — but SIG-lovers will buy the heavy Mosquito no matter what we say.




Either you like or hate the looks of the Whitney Wolverine, but everybody loved its performance. The space-age, vent-rib, SA .22 had excellent accuracy and a fine trigger that let us wring it all out.

Need a full-size .22 pistol? We’ve looked at smaller pistols and revolvers recently, but some want or need a larger .22 pistol, for whatever reasons. Happy to oblige, we grabbed two pistols that we thought would fill the hands better than anything smaller, and put them against each other in the hands of our test team. The pistols were the Whitney Wolverine ($280), Olympic Arms’ remake of the Space-Age-looking older design which used to have an aluminum frame; and SIG’s Mosquito ($390), a close copy of that company’s larger pistols, with similar shape and finish but made somewhat smaller overall. The Wolverine was much lighter than the Mosquito, and it had a grip shape that not everyone will like. The Mosquito, which felt great in most hands, cost a bunch more. Was it worth it? Let’s see what we found.
Whitney Wolverine .22 LR, $280
Our first look at the Wolverine resulted in mixed feelings. Some of us loved the look and grip angle, and others hated them. Fair testers that we are, we withheld final judgment until all the smoke had cleared from the firing range.

From the Olympic Arms website we learned: “The original Whitney Wolverine pistol went into production in 1956…. Its radical ‘space age’ design…pointed naturally for most shooters.” We beg to differ. Those of us with lots of time on a 1911 found that the “natural” pointing of the Wolverine gave it a 15- or 20-degree angle upward. This would most likely result in shooting the moon, not the target.

The pistol came with extra-cost wood stocks of fancy checkered cocobolo wood. These were indeed lovely, and compared with the gun’s standard black plastic grips, they immediately justified their extra cost. For the latest prices on grips, spare magazines, and a neat-looking nylon holster, phone Oly Arms at (360) 456-3471 or email your questions to [email protected].

The Wolverine is basically a plastic-frame gun (originals from the 1950s were aluminum-framed), and it weighed about the same as the long-barrel P22. The maker recommended high-velocity .22s in the lone ten-round magazine, but we found the gun functioned perfectly with our light-recoiling Eley target ammo, despite the extreme cold weather of our test conditions.

The sight picture was excellent. We noticed the dovetailed rear sight was finger loose, so windage adjustments were easy. Obviously the sight would have to be staked or glued in place once the gun was sighted for the individual. There were no provisions for elevation adjustment. However, the gun shot very close to its sights. The tubular bolt had a cutout that opened into the ejection port as the bolt cycled. There was no way to keep the bolt open, and it did not stay open after the final shot. The gun had a thumb safety on the left-rear corner, and it worked backward from most. Down was on, and it could only be put on with the flat, external hammer cocked. The gun could not be fired with the magazine removed. The magazine release was a thumb latch at the bottom of the grip. Loading the ten-shot magazine was essentially impossible unless you knew a trick. Insert a cartridge into a conspicuous hole in the magazine follower and use it to pull down the follower as you feed rounds into the top. The manual suggests using the takedown tool to do this job, but we’re sure these will be left home when you go to the range — unless you put it on your keyring with the loop provided. It’s good planning by Oly Arms to have made the hole .22 size.

The trigger pull was superb, breaking cleanly at 4 pounds, and the large, wide trigger surface gave excellent control. The fully loaded magazine, we found, didn’t want to seat easily into the gun. We had to press hard and make sure the catch snapped into place. But once it was in there, we experienced the joy of making very small groups with this pistol. In fact, the only pistol in the test that shot consistently better than the Wolverine was the rare, costly Walther PP Sport. Many groups were right at the 1-inch mark.

Takedown was perhaps the most unusual of any firearm we’ve seen recently. With the gun unloaded, you first unscrew the plastic (!) nut at the muzzle, and then the guts can all be pulled out the back. The gun is essentially a plastic tube with a gun fitted inside. And it’s all very clever, and actually quite simple. Workmanship was excellent everywhere we looked, inside and out. We found takedown to be far easier than the manual led us to believe, but be sure to read the manual before you attempt disassembly. There are some small parts, and if you lose one of ‘em you’re out a gun until you get replacements. The manual had a few tips that made reassembly easy.

SIG Mosquito .22 LR, $390
The SIG Mosquito seemed to be a well-made and attractive pistol, all matte black, with a full-size polymer frame that had what we thought was a great-feeling grip. The separate plastic grip wrapped around the back strap, and was lightly textured. The front strap of the plastic grip frame had horizontal serrations that we liked. The SIG website shows various color options for this pistol, but the options add tremendously to the cost. A green-frame version, lists at $460, the same as a two-tone version. The extended, threaded-barrel version costs $500.

The German-made gun had five control levers on its left side, but only one on the right, the ambidextrous safety lever. On the left was the magazine release, and though it looked like it could be switched to the right, we could not find any info on this. The takedown lever was at the left-front of the frame, just above the front of the trigger guard, and it didn’t want to stay in place. It easily rotated 360 degrees to wherever you wanted to put it. The detent for the normal position, pointed aft, was insufficient, we thought. Just behind that was the decocking lever, followed by the slide stop, which held the slide open after the last shot. The latter two parts and many of the internal pieces were stamped sheet steel. Takedown was simple. With the gun unloaded and magazine removed, rotate the takedown lever until it’s pointing forward. Then grasp the slide and pull it all the way back, and lift it (like on a Walther PPK), and then slide it forward off the front of the barrel. The spring and its keeper then are loose and will fall out. The pocket for the slide spring appeared to be made of pot metal (zinc casting), and it was loose within the slide. This didn’t inspire confidence, but the gun did work properly. The slide keeper behind the spring-pocket piece also appeared to be a pot-metal casting, or perhaps bare aluminum.

The polymer frame held an aluminum subframe; various pins held the main parts onto the frame. The barrel housing and its retaining bolster appeared to be aluminum alloy. The barrel itself was a steel insert. The feed ramp was aluminum. The gun came with two slide springs, one stiffer for hotter .22 loads if they’re going to be commonly used. We did our testing with the normal spring.

The slide itself was of carefully made and machined aluminum alloy. It had a steel insert for the breech face that also extended to become the stripper bar for loading cartridges and for cocking the hammer during cycling. We had occasional hitches reinstalling the slide. It looked like it was in place but would not move forward until we fiddled with the slide position. However, we didn’t have to resort to the installation pin as used by the Walther P22. Don’t forget to turn the takedown lever rearward when the gun’s all back together.

The frame had a rail for adding a light in front of the trigger guard, which we thought was a dubious item for a .22 pistol. However, one version of this pistol is now sold with a protruding, threaded muzzle — presumably for a silencer — and with clandestine ops in mind, a light rail makes some sense. This rail can also be used to attach an optional ($120) red-dot optical sight and base. This SIG was noticeably heavier than the Whitney Wolverine. Those of us who didn’t care for the grip angle of the WW really took to the SIG, at least until the trigger was tried.

The Mosquito could not be fired with the lone ten-shot magazine removed, but the hammer could still be lowered with the decocker. Putting the ambidextrous safety on did not drop the hammer. The gun could, therefore, be carried cocked and locked, but the safety didn’t allow easy use by any definition. On was down, as with the Wolverine. We loved the sights and sight picture of the Mosquito. The rear was adjustable for windage, and elevation was by installing higher or lower front-sight inserts, which came with the gun. The sights had yellow dot inserts, which helped the picture in some light. We found that elevation was fine with the normal insert. There was also a key-driven storage lock within the butt of the SIG.

The trigger pulls, DA and SA, were awful. The trigger itself was plastic, with lots of curve to it. The SA travel was three-stage, the first stop coming at about 2.5 pounds, a second distinct stop at a few ounces more, then the final break at 6.2 pounds. The DA trigger didn’t move until the 8-pound mark had been passed, and it exceeded our 12-pound electric Lyman scale when the trigger was no more than halfway back. It stacked badly from there, and we estimated the final break at about 15 pounds, perhaps more. The ads for this pistol say your trigger finger will get itchy. We think it will get mighty sore before any itching starts.

On the range we had a few failures to feed with the relatively low-recoiling Eley Pistol Standard ammunition, the slide failing to come far enough rearward in most cases. But the gun was very new when that happened. After some shooting time, feeding with that ammo improved, but never became fully reliable. We had no failures with the much hotter CCI Mini Mags, nor with Winchester’s Power-Point HPs. A target (five shots, 15 meters) accompanied the gun, showing a group of 1.5 inches. Our 15-yard testing showed groups on a par with the factory target, all of which we thought were disappointing. The P22 Walther made better groups with similar ammo. On average, we came to expect about 1.5-inch groups from the Mosquito with best ammo. Perhaps a search for the best fodder will produce even better average groups, because we found, even in our limited testing, the SIG Mosquito had distinct preferences.

Gun Tests Recommends
• Whitney Wolverine .22 LR, $280. Buy It. We could not fault the Wolverine, despite the fact that some of us did not like the grip angle at all. The gun worked very well, even in extreme cold with light target ammo. The grouping was excellent, and in fact our only complaint was about the loose rear sight. But a drop of glue can fix that. If you need a good knock-about pistol that won’t cost an arm and a leg, we suggest you look into the Whitney Wolverine. Oly Arms gives it a lifetime guarantee, not all that common in today’s firearms world, and that says a lot.

• SIG Mosquito .22 LR, $390. Conditional Buy. We loved the feel of this pistol in the hand, but didn’t think it shot as well as it ought to have, all things considered. We were repulsed by the trigger pulls. By contrast, the Whitney Wolverine had a near-perfect trigger, and shot circles around the Mosquito. We also thought the SIG was too big and heavy for most .22-pistol purposes. We realize many folks will prefer the look and feel of this pistol to the Wolverine, and will never be happy with its Buck Rogers look. But if you want to hit your target, save a C-note off the top, can do without the dubious DA trigger so many seem to love, and want a dream of a trigger pull, go with the Wolverine. We’d steer clear of the Mosquito unless we were in love with the SIG pistol world. But if you love the top-heavy look and feel of the SIG pistols, you’ll be right at home here.




-Text and photos by Ray Ordorica from Gun Tests field evaluations
 
Here is the Walther



February 2006

Four .22s for Fun and Practice: We Praise One Walther P22
Walther’s 3.4-inch-barrel P22 has a lot going for it, including light weight, accuracy, and good shooting manners. It’s Our Pick over an older PP, a 5-inch P22, and a pricey PP Sport.




Product Coordination Editor Joe Syczylo tried the P22 in both barrel lengths and agreed the 3.4-inch barrel had it all over the longer model. We rated the shorter P22 as an Our Pick, but we issued a Don’t Buy rating for the 5-inch P22. Some shooters may also want the PPs.

The quest for a small .22 LR handgun can take one to strange places. The first place one might look is in the catalogs of today’s makers, but your first surprise will be that there are not all that many small .22 LR autoloader handguns available. There are plenty of ‘em about the size of a 1911, but it seems the fine small autos of the past are almost gone. Walther offers the fine P22 in two barrel lengths. We looked hard at the longer-barrel version in January 2003, but the shorter version was something of a mystery. Both of these new Walthers had parallels in the older PP Walther, with short barrel and fixed sights, and in the adjustable-sighted, longer-barreled Walther PP Sport. We obtained both the long- and short-barrel P22 (MSRP $301 for either one) along with a copy of the all-steel Walther PP, offered recently by Southern Ohio Gun ($500). Luck was with us, because a staff member happened to own one of the fairly rare Walther PP Sports (about $1100), and made it available for testing. We put them to the test, and this is what we found.
Walther PP (Manurhin) .22 LR, $500
A friend of GT bought this PP recently from Southern Ohio Gun. At this writing, there are plenty of ‘em floating around, but they won’t last forever. The PP was an all-steel pistol with excellent polishing and bluing on the slide, but with machining marks here and there on the frame. The gun was made in France, by the Manufacture de Machines du Haut-Rhin, known by the contraction Manurhin. A double-action for the first shot, the gun’s controls were just like those of the PP or PPK in centerfire calibers. Our PP held ten shots in each of its two magazines. In fact, all the guns in this test held ten shots, and all came with two magazines.

We thought this was an excellent example of the PP design. Its bluing was scarcely blemished, with only the slightest signs of handling wear in the bluing along the sharp edges. The plastic grip panels were sharply checkered and looked close to new. The barrel too was like new. Takedown was simple, just like the centerfire versions. Clear the gun, then pull downward on the trigger guard, pull the slide fully rearward and lift it, then ease it forward off the frame. The insides of the gun showed almost no wear.

The single-action trigger pull was excellent, breaking at 4.9 pounds with a touch of controllable creep, as is common with most Walthers of this type. The safety lever dropped the hammer when applied. The gun could be fired with the magazine out, which was not possible with the newer P22. The sight picture, a U-notch rear and a flat-top front post, was small but workable. The front sight was integral with the slide; the rear, set into a dovetail and driftable for windage. The gun shot close to its point of aim with all ammo, but showed a distinct preference for different types of ammo.

We shot all guns with Eley Pistol Standard, CCI Mini-Mag solids, and Winchester Power Point HP, and also shot them with several other types. Best grouping for the old PP was with Eley Standard, which gave occasional one-inch groups at 15 yards, centered at the point of aim, but usually only four of the shots grouped well. There were frequent unexplainable flyers. We saw a lot of vertical stringing with the PP.

The PP’s slide was loose around the barrel, and when the slide cycled, it didn’t always come to rest in the same position. The sights thus no longer looked where the barrel pointed. We wrapped the barrel with tape to close the gap, and for the short time the tape lasted, the gun shot consistent, generally smaller groups.

A serious gunsmithing “fix” for this condition might be to solder a thin steel band around the barrel where it contacts the slide, but that would hurt resale or collector value. If we owned it, we might experiment with Brownells’ various bedding compounds to tighten the fit and improve accuracy, which was certainly not as consistent as we’d have liked. Overall accuracy was not as good as we’d have liked. The vertical-stringing tendency diminished when we shot in extremely cold weather. In near-zero temperatures we had some failures of the hammer to remain cocked, and that happened with both the PP and PP Sport. But we discounted any problems with the guns that could be attributed to cold, because none of the pistols had been prepared for low temperatures.

Walther P22 No. WAP22003 .22 LR, $301
This was our first hard look at the 3.4-inch-barrel P22, and we really liked it. We thought it would give up accuracy to the longer-barrel P22, but that was not the case. In fact, we could see no reason at all to own the longer one. Actually, if you have either one of these you can buy the barrel (about $100) for the other and convert it. This barrel-changing ability led to a problem with the longer gun, detailed below. Out of the box, we thought the P22-003 was a great-looking little gun, all business. It fit the hand extremely well, but some thought the grip was too small in circumference. We tried the (included) thicker rear-grip insert, and liked it better.

The gun was a uniform matte black, but is also available in two-tone, or in “military” colors, with dark-green frame and black slide. There is also a carbon-fiber-frame version, which is supposed to be even lighter, and there is a suppressed version for those who need it and can legally own it. The frame was polymer, and the slide of aluminum. The grip panels were formed integrally with the frame, and had molded-in dots for traction. The gun had an ambidextrous safety, and could not be fired with the magazine out. The gun also had a clever internal trigger lock that could be activated with a key that came with the package. The magazine release levers were ambidextrous, so the gun was good for lefties. Some of the parts were sheet metal, but seemed to be adequately strong for their intended purpose. The slide serrations worked well. There were extra serrations on the front of the slide for press checking, and there was a chamber-inspection slot. We could have done without the hook on the front of the trigger guard. The edges of the ejection port were razor sharp, the only sharp corners we found on the gun. We liked the sights, both the windage-adjustable rear and the replaceable plastic front. The sights had white dots and gave an excellent picture. Four different front-sight heights are available for fine tuning the P22.

Takedown was very much like that of the old PP. Clear the gun, cock it, and pull the takedown lever just above the front of the trigger guard all the way down. Then pull the slide to the rear, lift it, and ease it off the barrel to the front. The guts of the gun were mounted into an aluminum frame pinned within the polymer frame. Workmanship was excellent inside and out, we thought. Replacing the slide required the use of a small rod that came in the kit. Good luck getting the slide back in place if you lose that rod. We suggest making or securing a replacement before you lose the original.

On the range we had zero problems. We loved the trigger, which broke cleanly at about 4.4 pounds. The double-action pull was just 9 pounds and quite smooth. We tweaked the tiny adjustable rear sight for windage and got on target. No need to change the front sight. We tried several other types of ammunition, and the little Walther liked it all. This is the sort of little .22 pistol we had in mind when we began looking for guns for this article. The old aluminum-frame, 9-shot PPK/L is, we think, well replaced in today’s market with this very accurate little pistol.

Walther PP Sport, about $1100
Walther solved the accuracy problem of the PP by putting the front sight onto the extended barrel. It didn’t matter where the slide ended up after each shot, the sights were still aligned with the bore. There were two barrel lengths available with this fairly rare old pistol, one that barely stuck out the front of the slide, and our long one, which measured 8.25 inches. The barrel on our specimen had a slight bulge at the midway point, but it didn’t seem to have the slightest effect on accuracy, because this was by far the most accurate pistol of this test series. The gun was similar to the PP in overall configuration and finish, and was from the same French maker. The grips were extended to give the shooter a full-size handle, and one of the magazines had a matching extension. The left grip had a thumb rest molded into the checkered plastic. The slide was not just a PP with the front sight cut off. The top serrations went all the way to the muzzle. Also, the slide was marked “PP Sport.” The quality of metal polish on the slide was slightly better than on the PP, and our PP Sport showed even less handling wear.

The sight picture was perfection. The square-notch rear sight was adjustable for windage, and the flat-top front post could be adjusted for elevation, though the adjustment screw appeared to be damaged. The sights were right on the money. The front sight nut was similar to that of the modern P22 long-barrel in that it kept getting loose. But with the nut loose, the keyed sight still stayed aligned, unlike the new pistol. We doubt this older German pistol was designed with a made-to-order suppressor in mind, as is the modern P22. The front sight had to be removable on this design to permit the passage of the slide during takedown.

The trigger pull of the PP Sport had zero creep, and broke at 4.6 pounds, all in all a better trigger than on the PP. Our best groups were around half an inch, and the PP Sport did this with regularity with the Eley Pistol Standard ammunition. A few groups with best-quality Eley Tenex and Federal Gold Medal match were at least that good. The PP Sport did nearly as well with CCI MiniMags and Winchester HP, but the latter did produce the worst group of our limited testing.

Walther PP .22 LR No. WAP22005 $301
We found a problem with this 5-inch-barrel version of the P22. The barrel came loose from very limited shooting. We suspect the problem was caused by the mass of the phony brake hanging on the end of the barrel. The manual even warned of this condition. If the brake feels loose, it suggested, take it off and tighten the barrel nut. To get to that nut we had to use two metric Allen wrenches (supplied) to remove the false flash hider/muzzle brake, and then disassemble the gun, find the wrench, tighten the barrel nut, and then put the whole thing back together. The barrel didn’t come loose again anytime soon after we found the trouble, but we felt all that useless weight hanging out front didn’t really amount to a significant advantage with this pistol design other than giving it a longer sight radius and perhaps contributing to that nut getting loose. Will it come loose again? Maybe, but we didn’t like the fight of getting into the guts to fix it, or just to clean it. Also, we ought to have been able to shoot the longer barrel better than the shorter one, but that didn’t happen. We got about as good groups with the shorter, lighter, simpler 3.4-inch barrel on the P22, so why bother with the extra weight and length?

Gun Tests Recommends
• Walther PP .22 LR (Manurhin), $500. Don’t Buy. We don’t think there’s a real need to buy one of these, because the P22 is cheaper, lighter, and more accurate. However, some shooters will like the look and feel of this old all-steel PP, which had a solid feel and sleek, classic lines that were missing from the modern P22. We would agree that the PP was a classic and classy handgun, well made and with a great overall feel. Shooters who prize those qualities can consider the gun a Conditional Buy.

• Walther P22 .22 LR No. WAP22003, $301. Our Pick. We liked this little .22 pistol immensely. It was completely reliable in our limited shooting, and shot very well, with many five-shot groups going around an inch at 15 yards. The impact could be fine-tuned as necessary by changing the front sight. The windage was slick and handy, we found, and adjusted with relative ease. We think this model, with its 3.4-inch-long barrel, is by far the better setup of the two P22s available, the longer one having given us fits. We think anyone in need of a fine little .22 pistol that works every time and doesn’t bust the bank need look no farther than the short-barrel P22. We thought it was an ideal fun gun, one we’d take in the backpack and not even know it’s there.

• Walther PP Sport, about $1100. Conditional Buy. Our feeling was that the rare old PP Sport was a mighty accurate, thoroughly reliable, and highly desirable pistol. Its long sight radius gave it a perhaps unfair advantage. Still, it was one mighty fine pistol, we thought. The going price of the PP Sport, far higher than the other pistols in this test, made us give it a Conditional Buy rating. Yet in our opinion, any collector who can find one should, by all means, snap it up and consider himself mighty lucky.

• Walther P22 No. WAP22005, $301. Don’t Buy. The shorter one did it all, despite its having its front sight on the slide instead of on the barrel. The slide-to-barrel fit, combined with the stiff slide spring on the short P22, seemed to return the slide to the same position well enough to give us great accuracy without resorting to weight, barrel length, sight radius, etc. The lighter pistol would be more likely to go along on the trail, and would do just as well as the longer, heavier one. At first we really liked this version with its 5-inch barrel and its false brake, but over the course of our testing, our opinion changed. In our estimation, you ought not to buy this long version.
 
I'm a Sig girl, but my personal preference may not work for your wife. Have your wife try both guns & get her the one that SHE likes better. [wink]
 
I was very unimpressed with the walther p22, the mosquito feels better in your hands...but if you get the mosquito be sure to polish the feed ramps to ensure proper feeding of ammo

Exactly! Basically, it comes down to comfort and the PROPER ammo. Jam-O-Matic is an understatement if you pick the wrong ammo. Kind of like Indiana Jones when that Nazi picked the wrong cup: "He chose.....poorly." [smile]
 
I just bought a Sig Mosquito for my wife. It's a great size and weight. She hasn't fired it yet, but as everyone says: CCI mini-mags, polish, and lube. The Mosquito take-down is a little strange if you're familiar with other Sigs, but it's not difficult. No experience on the P22.

If you want a full size gun in 22LR and you like Sig, you have two options (both of which are quite a bit more expensive than the Mosquito, but more versatile in the long run):

1) Get the Sig P226 Classic in 22LR. I think you can get these in Mass, but I'm not sure. With this gun, you're actually buying a platform for multiple calibers. You can later buy "Caliber x-change kits" for 9mm, 356sig, or 40sw that include a slide/barrel and a magazine. Very cool, and excellent for training on multiple calibers. Plus, you get a decent Sig trigger. The Mosquito trigger isn't great, but it's fine for plinking.

2) Get a Sig P226 or P229 in one of the big calibers and then buy a 22 LR conversion. This is sort of going in the opposite direction as #1, but the caliber conversions work differently. Not sure about the price difference. If you go this route, get the P226/P229 in 40sw or 357sig. The reason is that the 40sw and 357sig barrels and mags are interchangeable, so a caliber switch between those two is just buying a new sig barrel. For 9mm, you can buy a so called "conversion barrel" from bar-sto. You _cannot_ go from 9mm to 40 or 357, because the slide is different for 9mm. If you're not confused yet, the "caliber x-change kits" that work on the P226 classic apparently don't fit an off the shelf P226 that's not the P226 Classic. I have no idea why, but this is what Sig tells me. Something about frame differences.

Probably more than info than you wanted.
 
I just bought a Sig Mosquito for my wife. It's a great size and weight. She hasn't fired it yet, but as everyone says: CCI mini-mags, polish, and lube. The Mosquito take-down is a little strange if you're familiar with other Sigs, but it's not difficult. No experience on the P22.

If you want a full size gun in 22LR and you like Sig, you have two options (both of which are quite a bit more expensive than the Mosquito, but more versatile in the long run):

1) Get the Sig P226 Classic in 22LR. I think you can get these in Mass, but I'm not sure. With this gun, you're actually buying a platform for multiple calibers. You can later buy "Caliber x-change kits" for 9mm, 356sig, or 40sw that include a slide/barrel and a magazine. Very cool, and excellent for training on multiple calibers. Plus, you get a decent Sig trigger. The Mosquito trigger isn't great, but it's fine for plinking.

2) Get a Sig P226 or P229 in one of the big calibers and then buy a 22 LR conversion. This is sort of going in the opposite direction as #1, but the caliber conversions work differently. Not sure about the price difference. If you go this route, get the P226/P229 in 40sw or 357sig. The reason is that the 40sw and 357sig barrels and mags are interchangeable, so a caliber switch between those two is just buying a new sig barrel. For 9mm, you can buy a so called "conversion barrel" from bar-sto. You _cannot_ go from 9mm to 40 or 357, because the slide is different for 9mm. If you're not confused yet, the "caliber x-change kits" that work on the P226 classic apparently don't fit an off the shelf P226 that's not the P226 Classic. I have no idea why, but this is what Sig tells me. Something about frame differences.

Probably more than info than you wanted.

That's an ideqa. I do have a 229 in 40.
 
...Takedown was very much like that of the old PP. Clear the gun, cock it, and pull the takedown lever just above the front of the trigger guard all the way down. Then pull the slide to the rear, lift it, and ease it off the barrel to the front. The guts of the gun were mounted into an aluminum frame pinned within the polymer frame. Workmanship was excellent inside and out, we thought. Replacing the slide required the use of a small rod that came in the kit. Good luck getting the slide back in place if you lose that rod. We suggest making or securing a replacement before you lose the original.

that right there was a deal breaker for me, it was almost a battle at times to try to get the slide back on my buddy's p22.
 
Both

We have both.

I like the P22 because it reminds me of my days as a kid...only its a VERY REAL gun. You can hence have a lot of fun with it.

Firearm-wise I prefer my Mosquito because it's full size, helps me train a good grip and can be very accurate when I talk sweet enough (feed the right ammo).

The Sig is more ammo sensitive than the P22 - some would disagree.

If you are having fun - P22. If you are having fun AND training for "big guns" and defense...Mosquito hands down.

Just MHO.
 
I don't like my P22. Feeding problems with every type of ammo. I need to take it to someone to have it tweaked then maybe I'll like it.

The Mosquito on the other hand is something that I definitely want to buy. I've shot it and liked it.
 
P22

Although I hear a lot of people saying the P22 is picky about ammo I have over 1000 rounds through mine without a hiccup. I always use high-velocity ammo and have never had a problem. Although the grip is small for a man's hands a woman should find it perfect.
 
anyone who hates their P-22 so bad they want to sell them cheap, let me know. Mine's been about as flawless as they come.
 
I've shot the Walther and hated it. It feels nice in my hands but always has feeding problems (regardless of ammo) and I shoot horribly with it.
The Sig, on the other hand, is awesome. I bought a brand new one last month and have fed it mini-mags without a problem.
I vote for the Mosquito, just make sure it's a new one (less problems).
 
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