22/45 Target failure to feed

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Just picked up a used 22/45 on NES classifieds. It's been upgraded with Volquartzen and Majestic arms parts. Very accurate but 21 failure to feeds in 200 rds feeding it CCI standard velocity. Purchased this gun with the intent to join an indoor pistol league. This isn't gonna work. Where should I start? Do these guns like a lot of oil. My SR22 doesn't. It has the factory loaded chamber indicator. I think I read somewhere those cause issues. Any help would be great. Ty.

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greencobra

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I know nothing about volquartzen and majestic but in my experience most feeding issues start with the magazine.
 
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Just picked up a used 22/45 on NES classifieds. It's been upgraded with Volquartzen and Majestic arms parts. Very accurate but 21 failure to feeds in 200 rds feeding it CCI standard velocity. Purchased this gun with the intent to join an indoor pistol league. This isn't gonna work. Where should I start? Do these guns like a lot of oil. My SR22 doesn't. It has the factory loaded chamber indicator. I think I read somewhere those cause issues. Any help would be great. Ty.

imagejpeg



Disassemble and clean your mags. Some brands of ammo have a lot of waxy lube on the bullet that eventually builds up in the mag tube. It can slow down the follower enough so it doesn't push up the next round in time for the bolt to properly chamber it, resulting in it hanging up on the feed ramp.

Also, try some different mags. The ones you have may be defective. Also try higher velocity ammo.
 
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Was the bolt upgraded with VQ parts, or just the trigger group?
I had consistent FTE stovepipes with three mags and several brands of ammo (MkIII Hunter,) and the Exact Edge extractor made it happy to eat anything I feed it.
 

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For the love of God, do not take apart your 22/45 unless absolutely necessary. Just reference all the headaches everyone has experienced. If you decide you want to disassemble it, make sure you've got a rubber mallet (you'll know what I mean when you look up resources).

Check the mags first then use higher velocity ammo. That solved all my issues with my 22/45. I find .22LR standard velocity to vary in actual velocity. It was enough to cause some failure to feeds. I switched to high velocity ammo and the failures reduced significantly.
 
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Was the bolt upgraded with VQ parts, or just the trigger group?
I had consistent FTE stovepipes with three mags and several brands of ammo (MkIII Hunter,) and the Exact Edge extractor made it happy to eat anything I feed it.

I installed one of these in my MKIII Competition that has 10's of thousands of rounds through it and between it and the new firing pin and trigger kit it runs flawlessly with any ammo. I run the mags through my ultrasonic once in a while then give them some dry lube and it keeps them in good working order. Tri_flo is good stuff if you can find it. It goes on as liquid and leaves a Teflon type coating.

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For the love of God, do not take apart your 22/45 unless absolutely necessary.
Why is everyone so afraid to take these apart. it is not hard at all.
 

F2386

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Why is everyone so afraid to take these apart. it is not hard at all.

I consider myself to be relatively handy. There's nothing you can't find on Google. However, the first time took me hours to disassemble/reassemble. After I figured out the trick I could do it in a minute. I just don't understand why the 22/45 was designed like that. Glock, Sig, M&P... you can take them apart in seconds and they're pretty intuitive. But the 22/45, WTF.

Edit:

I think it was the hammer/spring cap/back strap whatever that confused me.
 
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I consider myself to be relatively handy. There's nothing you can't find on Google. However, the first time took me hours to disassemble/reassemble. After I figured out the trick I could do it in a minute. I just don't understand why the 22/45 was designed like that. Glock, Sig, M&P... you can take them apart in seconds and they're pretty intuitive. But the 22/45, WTF.

Edit:

I think it was the hammer/spring cap/back strap whatever that confused me.


Mk pistols (I, II, and III) and the 22/45 derivative have the benefit of coaxial assembly: Barrel, receiver, chamber, bore, and bolt are all cylindrical and (theoretically) easier to assemble along a nice shared axis. This design (again, theoretically) is inherently more accurate than a square receiver/slide/bolt.
The parts that cause people so much assembly heartache (pivoting hammer, and mainspring / bolt retainer pin assembly) are all a design compromise to make the cylindrical upper a reality.
 
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I did a lot of youtubing prior to purchasing this gun. Was nearly a pro at taking it apart and putting it back together before even owning one. I have zero problems with that. Tomorrow I will pull apart the mags and give them some TLC. If that doesn't work I'll try some higher velocity ammo. I got a good deal on this standard velocity but the 10/22 and sr22 run it fine. Was hoping I could stick just one type but no big deal. Thanks for all the replies. You guys definatly make owning an unfirmiliar firearm easier.
 
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I installed one of these in my MKIII Competition that has 10's of thousands of rounds through it and between it and the new firing pin and trigger kit it runs flawlessly with any ammo. I run the mags through my ultrasonic once in a while then give them some dry lube and it keeps them in good working order. Tri_flo is good stuff if you can find it. It goes on as liquid and leaves a Teflon type coating.

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Why is everyone so afraid to take these apart. it is not hard at all.[/QUOTE


Not too difficult.... JimB
 
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I cleaned the two mags and it feeds way better. Still a few FTFs but a lot better. Going to pick up a couple new mags and see how those work. Tried higher velocity ammo and that made no difference. I'm pretty sure its the mags.
 

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I cleaned the two mags and it feeds way better. Still a few FTFs but a lot better. Going to pick up a couple new mags and see how those work. Tried higher velocity ammo and that made no difference. I'm pretty sure its the mags.

Did you do full mag disasembly removing baseplate or just clean from above the follower? If the latter would consider remocing baseplate and follower doing full scrub w some ballistol or CLP whatever cleaner you like.

Also depending how old or used they are you may benefit from new springs or followers, especially springs. Im guessing Wolff sells them if not ruger certainly does.
 
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Did you do full mag disasembly removing baseplate or just clean from above the follower? If the latter would consider remocing baseplate and follower doing full scrub w some ballistol or CLP whatever cleaner you like.

Also depending how old or used they are you may benefit from new springs or followers, especially springs. Im guessing Wolff sells them if not ruger certainly does.

Yes I took them completely apart and cleaned them out. Would I be better off just buying new mags or try springs and followers in these ones. The gun is a couple years old. Not really sure how many rounds through these mags but they are far from new.
 
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I cleaned the two mags and it feeds way better. Still a few FTFs but a lot better. Going to pick up a couple new mags and see how those work. Tried higher velocity ammo and that made no difference. I'm pretty sure its the mags.
When you get the FTF what is going on with the round, no pickup at all, jammed on the feed ramp. I have seen a LCI that was binding also cause feed issues. Check it to make sure it moves freely. Tandemcross makes a plate to go in to replace the LCI if it is giving you issues. They just pop out.

Do you know what "Upgrades were done"
 

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I found a mag mod for the rugers that worked well..... What finally solved my problems was just taking down to the tueday night pistol league shoot and letting the guys with the rugers that work have a look.
I found my MKIII hunter likes a very minimal amount of lube. The only thing I did to mine is one of the better shooters down there instaled a new extractor.....mine runs 100% now and I j\have only used Aguila Extra SV
 
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When you get the FTF what is going on with the round, no pickup at all, jammed on the feed ramp. I have seen a LCI that was binding also cause feed issues. Check it to make sure it moves freely. Tandemcross makes a plate to go in to replace the LCI if it is giving you issues. They just pop out.

Do you know what "Upgrades were done"

Its jamming on the feed ramp. I have read that the LCI causes issues but more on ejection. Can I just take it out and grind the tab off to see if that helps? That would be a free test. Took a pic of it jammed but cant figure out how to post the pic.
 
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Its jamming on the feed ramp. I have read that the LCI causes issues but more on ejection. Can I just take it out and grind the tab off to see if that helps? That would be a free test. Took a pic of it jammed but cant figure out how to post the pic.

Just looked up the LCI removal on youtube. Gonna take that out and see if it improves.
 
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If you don't get anywhere with it I have a 22/45 if you would like to try my mags.

I just took out the LCI. I'm not feeding it hollow points. I'm using CCI lead round nose standard velocity. I'm doing one thing at a time. Cleaned the mags which helped a lot but didn't eliminate the issue. I'll take it out this weekend and try it without the LCI. If I still have issues I'll polish the feed ramp. If I'm still having issues I'll hit you up. Thanks a ton.
 
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I just took out the LCI. I'm not feeding it hollow points. I'm using CCI lead round nose standard velocity. I'm doing one thing at a time. Cleaned the mags which helped a lot but didn't eliminate the issue. I'll take it out this weekend and try it without the LCI. If I still have issues I'll polish the feed ramp. If I'm still having issues I'll hit you up. Thanks a ton.

No problem, the CCi SV should not be an issue at all. When the rounds FTF do they look damaged?
 
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Yes sometimes. The bullet makes it into the chamber but its like the case get cought up in the mag. I took pics but dont know how to post them here.

Could be getting hung up on the extractor as well. Also check to be sure the firing pin return spring is not broken. This will allow it to protrude a little and keep the round from slipping under the extractor
 

92G

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Just looked up the LCI removal on youtube. Gonna take that out and see if it improves.

i also removed my LCI but as Chet is suggesting I also placed the tandemkross piece in place otherwise you have a gaping hole in L side of receiver which i find uncool. all that said, if the LCI is moving freely then it shouldn't affect feeding or ejection. i would not go grinding off parts from the native LCI. either replace it or leave it alone.

as mentioned earlier, mag spring exchange is worth doing for any gun if the springs are ancient. the best designed autoloader still relies on a cheap-ass spring to move the rounds up the mag. anytime i purchase an old pistol I replace the recoil spring and often mag springs if they feel weak.

the mark III design is incredibly robust. i wouldn't go modifying your gun to be reliable. this shouldn't be the case.

low threshold to send the gun back to ruger. their CS is top notch. however wouldn't send them the gun if you do tandemkross mods they will almost certainly remove them and replace the LCI + mag disconnect garbage.

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Could be getting hung up on the extractor as well. Also check to be sure the firing pin return spring is not broken. This will allow it to protrude a little and keep the round from slipping under the extractor

^^this!
extractor mod and firing pin spring swap isn't too hard, but does require the bolt to be disassembled if i recall. Ruger CS can definitely do this for you.
 
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Could be getting hung up on the extractor as well. Also check to be sure the firing pin return spring is not broken. This will allow it to protrude a little and keep the round from slipping under the extractor

I know the spring is not broken. I'm hoping removing the LCI does the trick. I won't be able to test until Sunday. I'll post back my results. Thanks.
 
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