2 - Newbie Questions

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So, I just set up my loading bench, have the Speer Manual and the Lyman Manual along with the ABC's of reloading.

I was getting some practice in with the dies and bullet loading)no primers or powder). I think I have most of it down, except when loading the bullets I check the OAL which on .40 S&W is 1.135 . They are coming out 1.129 and 1.130.

How close should you get to the OAL the books say?

I'm still waiting on my .40 crimping die to show up. I'm reading some conflicting articles that make me unsure if I need to use the crimping die or not. Do you actually need the crimping die?
 
So, I just set up my loading bench, have the Speer Manual and the Lyman Manual along with the ABC's of reloading.

I was getting some practice in with the dies and bullet loading)no primers or powder). I think I have most of it down, except when loading the bullets I check the OAL which on .40 S&W is 1.135 . They are coming out 1.129 and 1.130.

How close should you get to the OAL the books say?

I'm still waiting on my .40 crimping die to show up. I'm reading some conflicting articles that make me unsure if I need to use the crimping die or not. Do you actually need the crimping die?


Usually the OAL listed in the books are the max. it's more important to get an OAL tha chambers in your barrel without sticking on the rifling. you will also find that different style bullets will need the overall length adjusted to seat correctly in the chamber.

Yes you do need the crimping die. The crimping die removes the bell that was put in the case prior to seating the bullet.
 
depending what brand dies you are using they make take in the "bell" upon removal from the bullet seating die. i was crimping my 9mm loads for a while and decided to not crimp a batch one time just to try it out. i havent crimped a round since. its a matter of prefrence i guess. i think its an unneccessary step unless you are loading self defense rounds... as far as OAL length goes, just try to stick as close to the max OAL listed in your reloading data. assuming everything chambers well and doesnt mash into the rifleing of the barrel you should be all set. make sure they feed well in the mag as well. you wanna be carefull with OAL especially with higher pressure rounds like .40 and 9mm. good luck, and happy reloading. :)

EDIT: Forgot one thing about crimping. it can wear out the brass pretty quick if you put a heavy crimp on there as well. if you are using plated bullets make sure you dont crimp them so tight it scores or breaks the copper layer either.
 
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OK, we need a bit more information. What bullet are you playing with? Jacketed, lead?

The OAL, is the minimum length. What it is telling you is that if you go below, based on the bullet type and data, you are getting in to unsafe territory in terms of pressure. Since the .40 is a high pressure round to begin with, you don't want to have this spiking on you.

Regarding crimping, what I understand you to be saying is that you have the 3 die set (Lee?) but are waiting on the Factory Crimp Die? You can crimp without the FCD, using the bullet seating die but I always used the FCD in the 40 because it also resizes the brass again.

What are you shooting these reloads in? Does your gun have a fully supported chamber? This is a more important issue in the 40 due to the higher pressures.
 
Regarding OAL, I don't know about the Speer manual but the Lyman manual gives both recommended maximum and recommended minimum OAL for each round. Using 9mm as an example, if you flip to the 9mm (pistol) section of the manual you'll see a diagram of a 9mm round with a bunch of dimensions. The OAL dimension in that diagram (I believe it's 1.169) is the maximum recommended. Now, if you look at the individual charts for each bullet type for 9mm, you'll see shorter OAL's listed. Those are the minimum recommended OAL's for that specific bullet type and weight with the specific powders listed. Going under those recommended minimums puts you into real risk for kabooms. The general rule of thumb is to use an OAL as close to the listed maximum as you can get while still being able to fit the rounds in the magazine and reliably cycle them in your firearm.

BTW, when you are trying to find that perfect OAL, make just a few rounds at a time, not 100 at once. When you find out you can only fit 2 rounds in a magazine at a time because you made them too long, it can really raise your blood pressure.
 
More info: FMC MagTech 180gr .40 S&W bullets, Winchester Brass

Yes, it is the LEE 3 die set. I have the FCD on order but it's not here yet. My 9mm Lee Deluxe 4 piece set should be here tomorrow.

Most likely the .40 will be fired in my G32 with a Storm Lake match .40 barrel. When I switch to 9mm it will be in a Remsport 9mm conversion match barrel. I could fire it in my SW40VE but that is forsale in the Classifieds. To be honest, I don't fully understand the whole "Supported" Barrel term. I know Glock Factory barrels are not and the whole story that goes with the .40's KB with the factory barrel and non jacketed ammo.

I didn't see that in the Lyman. I haven't gotten to put powder into the brass yet as I wanted to get everything else right before I start putting primers and powder into them.

Question:
So, as long as your between the maximum (The OAL in the diagram) and the minimum (The OAL by the bullet type) you are ok?
 
Question:
So, as long as your between the maximum (The OAL in the diagram) and the minimum (The OAL by the bullet type) you are ok?

Short answer, yes. This is, of course, contingent on having serviceable brass and a charge of powder that is within safe limits for your firearm.
 
Currently my brass is either Brand New(Winchester) or Once fired(Winchester and Blazer). I'm sure that will change as time progresses.

Is WWB 9mm Brass ok to reload? Blazer?

Is the area of the case that is exposed considered an "Not fully supported chamber"
http://65.172.200.34/ruger/r3.jpg

Thanks for the help, my goal is to be as safe/careful as possible.
 
As ochmude alluded to, the OAL listed in the manuals is for the exact bullet (not just the weight but the shape and mfg) listed.

As a rule for auto pistols, I load them as long as I can, and still have them fit in the mag. Just to be on the safe side, I use the barrel as a case gage to make sure the bullet is off the lands. Since the cases in auto pistols headspace on the mouth, I've never had a round - no matter how long - that fit into the mag and had a bullet that hit the lands, but I guess it doesn't hurt to check.

Longer rounds won't be over pressure (provided you charge them according to the manual) and they tend to feed better than shorties.
 
Something I never understood. Maybe more experienced guys have an answer for.
9mm's seat on the case mouth. I know that your not supposed to roll crimp cases that seat as such. So why does the 3 die set always come with a roll crimp/seater instead of a taper crimp/seater die? Even when I use lead (has a cannelure) I don't use a roll crimp. I always use a taper crimp. If the bullets are jacketed I crimp only lightly. And lastly if you are going to crimp, the cases have to be all the same length.
 
A lot of the dies in the sets are "combination" crimp dies - if you crimp a little, it's a taper crimp, if you crimp a lot, it roll crimps.

Pistol cases don't grow when you fire them enough to worry about varying case length.
 
Currently my brass is either Brand New(Winchester) or Once fired(Winchester and Blazer). I'm sure that will change as time progresses.

Is WWB 9mm Brass ok to reload? Blazer?

Is the area of the case that is exposed considered an "Not fully supported chamber"
http://65.172.200.34/ruger/r3.jpg

Thanks for the help, my goal is to be as safe/careful as possible.

Yes the unsupported part is that part of the case exposed at the feed ramp. The older Glock 40's were worse than the newer ones. I would not load them hot. I don't have a Lyman manual yet but hope to get one soon. The Speer manual will give you a max OAL and a tested OAL. I usually load to the tested OAL. The only problem I have had is with some 9mm 124 grain FP bullets. The manual tested at 1.12 and that was too long to chamber in my CZ. I had to seat them to 1.036 to get them to chamber. In that case drop the charge a little and work them up.
I use the barrel as a case gage to make sure the bullet is off the lands.
I found out the hard way that my CZ rounds wouldn't chamber, at the range. Ever since then I check all of my pistol ammo in the barrel like Eddie suggested.
Rusty
 
Thanks guys, All the questions I've asked and got answered have helped out alot.

I'm about 1000 rnds into 9mm on a single stage press. I feel I have the hang of repeating what I feel is a good load. Actually they seem more accurate then the Factory WWB loads I've been shooting.

I'm still checking and double checking things. I check every bullet for length with calipers and also in an L.E. Wilson case length guage. I use the barrel too.

I still consider myself a newbie, but so far I'm very happy about the reloading I've done. The worst part of it is chasing down the brass as I'm firing it.
 
Currently my brass is either Brand New(Winchester) or Once fired(Winchester and Blazer). I'm sure that will change as time progresses.

Is WWB 9mm Brass ok to reload? Blazer?

Is the area of the case that is exposed considered an "Not fully supported chamber"
http://65.172.200.34/ruger/r3.jpg

Thanks for the help, my goal is to be as safe/careful as possible.

If it is Blazer aluminum it is not okay to reload if it is brass you are good to go.
 
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