1St Gen Glock 17

A mint or like BNIB gen1 with all the original mags, sights, internal parts, tupperware, etc. would be worth a bit of a premium, probably 1500ish if you find the right buyer, but a well used one without all the peripherals is worth about the same as any gen2.
 
Lol I disagree I bet those guns are still well stronger than a new p80 frame even. Just cause it's old doesn't mean it's deteriorated. We're not talking plastic spoons here.
I'd argue that a p80 frame is actually more rigid and probably stronger, they are glass reinforced, a Glock frame is not.
 
I had a Gen 1 G17 that I bought new when they first came out. I also had a total of 4 magazines for it. It probably had around 5k rounds through it. It was in good shape, no real indication of wear and no cosmetic issues. I sold it in mid 2019 for $800 and kind of felt bad because I charged so much but you know Glock prices in MA and some people will pay the $$.
 
I'd argue that a p80 frame is actually more rigid and probably stronger, they are glass reinforced, a Glock frame is not.

I’m being partially facetious I don’t think a P80 frame would deteriorate over time either….
 
Lol I disagree I bet those guns are still well stronger than a new p80 frame even. Just cause it's old doesn't mean it's deteriorated. We're not talking plastic spoons here.
I work in plastic processing. The more weather, shooting and wear the gun has seen obviously would deteriorate it. However simple time and oxidation, moisture does cause deterioration
If a gun is a safe queen that hasn't seen the light of day.....absolutely its fine, and Nylon generally is a robust polymer. But the additives and formulations, and processes in molding from the 80's to current time are night and day.

A frame made now has additives that strengthen, aid in flex, weathering, and process that nothing in the made in the 1980's would have. That said, there are plenty of manufacturers that push the envelope as far as part thickness and design go....P80 is one of them. Alot of them, just to make the frame cheaper with less material.

And yes, the old Glock frame was probably over engineered as thinking was it must be as strong as steel, and made as such.

And I'm not saying an old 80's gun is going to deteriorate to the point where it would fall apart in hand, but stress cracking due to polymer aging, and weathering certainly could be a factor.
 
I thought G1 Glocks were hot right now. Old school and all that. Maybe not. Maybe that one is F'd up enough to NOT be desirable. I'm not a fan of 1G's. Just too slippery.
That auction started at a penny at $300 now and has 12 bids, not ending for a couple days, I bet it at least doubles in price
 
I work in plastic processing. The more weather, shooting and wear the gun has seen obviously would deteriorate it. However simple time and oxidation, moisture does cause deterioration
If a gun is a safe queen that hasn't seen the light of day.....absolutely its fine, and Nylon generally is a robust polymer. But the additives and formulations, and processes in molding from the 80's to current time are night and day.

A frame made now has additives that strengthen, aid in flex, weathering, and process that nothing in the made in the 1980's would have. That said, there are plenty of manufacturers that push the envelope as far as part thickness and design go....P80 is one of them. Alot of them, just to make the frame cheaper with less material.

And yes, the old Glock frame was probably over engineered as thinking was it must be as strong as steel, and made as such.

And I'm not saying an old 80's gun is going to deteriorate to the point where it would fall apart in hand, but stress cracking due to polymer aging, and weathering certainly could be a factor.
I've had a gen2 g19 crack on thin part at the bottom of the lanyard hole before, I had my fiancé bring it into work (plastics & injection molding company) and she had a guy in the finishing dept. repair it and it's been fine since.
 
A early Gen 1 in original as shipped condition will bring good money in an auction setting. (One with a pencil barrel, original adjustable sights, Austrian proofs ,early serial number prefix, and non upgraded internals.) Otherwise it's just another really OLD Glock
 
A early Gen 1 in original as shipped condition will bring good money in an auction setting. (One with a pencil barrel, original adjustable sights, Austrian proofs ,early serial number prefix, and non upgraded internals.) Otherwise it's just another really OLD Glock
I would love it if I could dump it and get enough out of it for a Gen 5 MOS with an optic.
 
I have a fairly early glock. serial number is ak4** I'll have to look at the exact serial number and figure out either when it was built or when it was test fired.
First $25,000 takes it.
 
I would love it if I could dump it and get enough out of it for a Gen 5 MOS with an optic.
If you throw it up on gunbroker or something you might at least get enough to cover the gen 5. If you get an MOS you have to figure in an extra $70 for a decent mounting plate, the MOS mounting plates are kind of failure prone. Other option is to just buy a standard gen 5 and pick up a spare slide for it that is machined for an optic.
 
If you throw it up on gunbroker or something you might at least get enough to cover the gen 5. If you get an MOS you have to figure in an extra $70 for a decent mounting plate, the MOS mounting plates are kind of failure prone. Other option is to just buy a standard gen 5 and pick up a spare slide for it that is machined for an optic.
Are saying the MOS is not a good design? If that is the case I would jet get the standard and mill it, no need for an extra slide
 
Are saying the MOS is not a good design? If that is the case I would jet get the standard and mill it, no need for an extra slide
MOS is more convenient, but I do recommend using a CH precision plate or similar. The factory Glock MOS plates can be somewhat failure prone if you shoot a lot, like compete with it or train multiple times a year, or are counting on the gun as a duty gun or carry gun. For most people, the MOS plates are sufficient. CH precision or Forwards Controls Design plates are basically bomb proof on an MOS, but they do cost an extra penny so figure that in mind cost wise. My optic mounted pistol is a Gen 5 G19 MOS, Holosun 507c-x2 ACSS Green, Trijicon suppressor sights (tritium only no dots), with a CH precision optic mounting plate, vickers/tango mag release (rounder profile is so much nicer on the thumb), and a kagwerks slide lock because I run a thumbs high grip and tend to ride the oem slide lock.
 
If you throw it up on gunbroker or something you might at least get enough to cover the gen 5. If you get an MOS you have to figure in an extra $70 for a decent mounting plate, the MOS mounting plates are kind of failure prone. Other option is to just buy a standard gen 5 and pick up a spare slide for it that is machined for an optic.
Absolutely. Gucci slides aren’t Gucci money....
 
Are saying the MOS is not a good design? If that is the case I would jet get the standard and mill it, no need for an extra slide

No, TV sets are money pits. Some people prefer cuts designed for the optic etc. You can get lower depth that way too (if you care).
 
I may have missed it, but rather than a 17, any chance you saw a 17L?
Looking at Gunbroker's completed sales, the 17s are reaching between... $800 and 1400~. Here's one that sold at just over $1200: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/930059264

Meanwhile, some 17Ls are going for 2k+:
(gen 2) https://www.gunbroker.com/item/930056188

Anecdotally, I had a few Bernardelli pistols some years ago. Asked around about them, no one cared much for them, got offered 300-350. Had a lot of "It's only worth..." "I doubt you'll get much more than..." etc. Put them on GB, sold two at $800 each, and the last at $1000.

I'd recommend putting it on GB. Penny start, with a reasonable reserve. You want a Gen 5 MOS? Put the reserve near that. Opinions are nice. Cash is better. Let the people who are actively shopping for one drive the price.
 
Here's one on auction. 2 days left. Current bid is $215. No reserve. This sounds about right.

$465, selling price with a messed up slide, I will just push the GEN 1 17 to the back of the safe, just not worth it to me to sell it yet, Have a new standard gen 5 on the way already, I will have it milled for an RMR, $560 plus $125 to get it milled seems like the way to go for
 
You need to go to glocktalk and look in the collectors club section. If you have an original low number Gen 1 17 with everything that came with it like the manual and if it has the bullet box tupperware (those alone are going for almost $300) you would be surprised what someone will pay.
 
You need to go to glocktalk and look in the collectors club section. If you have an original low number Gen 1 17 with everything that came with it like the manual and if it has the bullet box tupperware (those alone are going for almost $300) you would be surprised what someone will pay.
Thanks, I will give that a look this evening
 
MOS is more convenient, but I do recommend using a CH precision plate or similar. The factory Glock MOS plates can be somewhat failure prone if you shoot a lot, like compete with it or train multiple times a year, or are counting on the gun as a duty gun or carry gun. For most people, the MOS plates are sufficient. CH precision or Forwards Controls Design plates are basically bomb proof on an MOS, but they do cost an extra penny so figure that in mind cost wise. My optic mounted pistol is a Gen 5 G19 MOS, Holosun 507c-x2 ACSS Green, Trijicon suppressor sights (tritium only no dots), with a CH precision optic mounting plate, vickers/tango mag release (rounder profile is so much nicer on the thumb), and a kagwerks slide lock because I run a thumbs high grip and tend to ride the oem slide lock.

C&H are located on Edsel Drive, Richmond Hill, GA - about 15 minutes from my house.

I ran into Beau Holly, (son of Buck Hollly, who is one of the owners of C&H), at a local USPSA match a couple of years ago. Chatting in between shooting, he told me that they could mill my slide and mount my Trijicon directly to it. They've done three of my glocks like that to date, a 41, a 31 and a 34. I'm quite satisfied with their work. The direct mount to the slide keeps the MOS low and there are fewer points of failure. Downside is that it's specific to the optic. I've done this only with my Trijicons - because I'm not going to change them out.

I didn't find out until after they'd done the first one that they've got an excellent national reputation; I think I heard that here, then googled it.

Found out the other day that a friend of mine who's an FFL is doing the ceracoating for them. I was at his home-based shop and he and a buddy were taping off a batch of slides to paint. Talking to him about it, he's getting 100 or so slides a week from C&H to coat after they cut them.

Apparently they're doing the cuts for Walther and Glock; which I found rather surprising - I would have thought that the factory would do the cuts themselves.

I've got one slide from Glock which is "factory cut" and requires an adapter plate - I have it so that it's legal for MOS division in GSSF.
 
The hardcore Television set kids just mill the slide for the optic. No plates or other bullshit. You pick something, settle on that, mill it, the end.

micro rant:

The fact that handgun optics dont all just use one plate/pattern/whatever is f***ing stupid.

And its part of the reason I f***ing hate television sets on handguns. Its stupidly confusing for something that shouldnt be.

Hopefully the industry will get past this level of faggotry and a dominant winner will occur and that will be the end of it. It's just a TV set on a
handgun slide, it should just be a couple screws and DONE christ.

Of course its probably some IP stupidity like Trijicon patented the pattern for the RMR or whatever, so now everyone else has to be different.

The idea of having like 4-6 different optic mount possibilities is mind numbingly stupid.

Hopefully this will end just like the stupid "mlok vs keymod" era with a winner and we can all be done with it.
 
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Gen 1 would have to have some backstory or low number to be of any collector value. Other than that its an old dry piece of plastic, worth 200 dollars because its probably ready
to crack.

That said in the 80's I had probably one of the first Gen 1's in my hand at a gun store in Northboro.

The owner and I laughing how he bought it just for fun because he wanted to shoot it and laugh because no one would buy a plastic gun.
And hes probably still in business today thinking the same thing
 
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