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is there a huge diff between the s&w and the colt/kimber? Or do I want the others because I can't get one easily? If I come across a nice kimber I am all over it, but should I wait?
Try finding a range that rents and shoot them. What's right for someone else may not be right for you.
Infinity (www.sviguns.com) has a few guns on the target list. Fit and finish is above a S&W (which are decent enough guns), and pricing is almost at the "if you have to ask, you can't afford it" level - but great stuff. Everyone at the factory is a dog lover as well.Given our restrictions here in MA, I suggest you either get a S&W or find a friendly FFL and order a frame from Caspian and have a gunsmith build a gun from scratch.
Which Colt? A Series 70 or Series 80? Current production or 1980s? It is hard to generalize.How does the colt compare to the s&w?
is there a huge diff between the s&w and the colt/kimber? Or do I want the others because I can't get one easily? If I come across a nice kimber I am all over it, but should I wait?
I think that you would be very pleased with a S&W.
Mark056 (disclaimer: I am a S&W stockholder)
Infinity (www.sviguns.com) has a few guns on the target list. .
Which Colt? A Series 70 or Series 80? Current production or 1980s? It is hard to generalize.
As a starting point for making the gun the way I want it, I'd prefer to start with a Series 70 style gun, whether that came from Colt or Springfield Armory. Most Colts will have an old style grip safety, an old style thumb safety, a solid trigger, and poor sights. I'll end up spending several hundred dollars getting all of those replaced. But the basic frame, slide, and barrel are fine.
A series I Kimber will already have the style of thumb safety, grip safety, trigger, and sights that I prefer. But you can't buy a Kimber a new Kimber in MA and people who already own them (like me) aren't selling. Personally, I would not buy a Kimber II even if the MA regulations went away -- I don't trust its firing pin safety or its problematic extractor.
Given the choice between a S&W 1911 and a Colt, I'd take the Colt, but by the time I had it set up how I want it would cost several hundred dollars more. I would do that because I don't like the S&W firing pin safety nor do I like the external extractor.
But the S&W is a solid gun and Colts are very hard to find in MA. If the MA regulations went away, I would buy another Wilson.
I've wanted a Colt series 70 for a long time. However, I've been told by some people that the problem is that 9 out 10 of these old colts has been monkeyed with by somebody. This isn't a problem for a 1911 expert who could easily pick out any problems, but for the more causal this could be an issue.
FYI, S&W made a few guns using the SA safety method, which is titanium firing pin with no firing pin safety. It's unclear if they will go to market with as I understand it, but if they did, it would make a lot of 1911 buyers happy and their sales would only go up due to the change.
Agreed, that would definitely increase their sales.
SVI/Infinity (www.sviguns.com) has some guns on the target list and some on the lab tested list. Dealers vary on what they feel comfortable selling - some accept that even the lab tested ones are designed and manufactured exclusively for formal target shooting competition. Some dealers won't even accept inclusion on the target list as allowing sale, our of fear the AG may take the position that "just because the EOPS accepts it as a target gun doesn't mean we do".So you can buy only what's on the "target" list from this company? Which are they? PM me for more "specifics" if that's needed...
Which Colt? A Series 70 or Series 80? Current production or 1980s? It is hard to generalize.
Given the choice between a S&W 1911 and a Colt, I'd take the Colt, but by the time I had it set up how I want it would cost several hundred dollars more. I would do that because I don't like the S&W firing pin safety nor do I like the external extractor.
On a Series 70 style gun, the only thing keeping the firing pin from hitting the primer is the firing pin retaining spring. If you drop a Series 70 style gun from a high enough level, onto a hard enough surface, and it hits on the muzzle, the inertia of the firing pin may overcome the force of the spring, causing an AD. Using a lighter firing pin and a heavier firing pin retaining spring reduces the chance of this happening (which is what Springfield Armory does).M1911, what is the advantage of the firing pin safety on the S&W? Maybe I should ask, why is the series 70 Colt a better gun?
Firing pin safeties typically fall into the Colt Series 80 pattern which are actuated by the trigger (Colt Series 80, Para Ordnance, Sig GSR) and the Swartz style safety which is actuated by the grip safety (Kimber, Smith & Wesson). Of all the firing pin safety mechanisms on the market, the original Colt Series 80 - in a Colt - is the most reliable of them all. The platforms utilizing the Swartz safety are a less than ideal choice across the board due to the inherent reliability problems of the design. The Swartz safety is extremely sensitive to the fit of the grip safety to the frame and the timing of the grip safety's trigger blocking arm. Tolerance issues can also lead to a Swartz safety that will time properly when the grip safety is depressed a certain way, and time differently when depressed a different way. This will typically be a product of loose fit of the grip safety to the frame tangs and/or loose fit of the thumb safety shaft through the grip safety. It is possible to have the grip safety timed such that the trigger will be able to release the sear well before the firing pin safety plunger has been moved far enough to clear the firing pin. Problems with improper timing of the Swartz safeties can lead to a situation where you get a "click" when you wanted a "bang." That's a serious problem. Unless department policy mandates a firing pin safety, I would choose a 1911 without one. It is possible to have a drop safe 1911 without the firing pin safety, and given the potential reliability problems with a poorly executed system, the perceived risk of drop safety is outweighed by the real risk of a failure to fire.
Better trigger feel and fewer parts. Downside is the chance of an AD if you drop a Series 70.I have an old, pristine Colt Gold Cup National Match that shoots real well, but I've never understood the advantage of the series 70 over the series 80.
Keep your Gold Cup as is. Since you are behind enemy lines, talk to someone like Greg Derr about how to spec out a frame and slide from Caspian, find a friendly FFL, then have it built the way you want it.I too would like a Wilson Custom Combat or a commander sized gun from Kimber. I've been thinking of turning my Gold Cup into a carry gun with fixed sights but it seems a shame to change such a classic gun.
I had a Kimber and didn't really like it that much. I thought the magazines were of poor quality.
One thing to remember when thinking about 1911s is to compare then to AR15s. Lots of folks are terrified of 1911s in general and, in the unlikely event that they know this much, of Series 70 1911s in particular. "They're not safe. They'll go off if you drop them!"
Yup, they might.
Suggestion? Don't drop your guns if you can avoid it.