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So before the end of last year, I completed fitting together a 1911 long slide. (frame and slide thanks to John at Remsport) I wanted to share the results of it with you. Though, it has not been finished yet. Its stainless, so I am going to go the paint route. Id like to put it to a vote on what folks think I should do as to color.
So, first some pics and background.
First here she is:
Granted she is a little dirty. It took a few range trips to get the recoil spring worked out. They don't make standard springs for long slide 1911s. Its not like you can go grab a GI #18 and go from there. I bought the Wolff calibration pack and started in at the weakest and moved up from there. You can tell the spring weight is off by looking where/how the casings get ejected and what they look like. If they eject cleanly, tumbling to 2-3 o'clock and they aren't bashed to pieces, rim's eaten up or jam in some way, I call it done.
Well Mac, thats cute and all - but how much bigger is the 6" compared to Government model? Ok, take a look for yourself.
Here is part of the stable. From left to right, we have an officer, then a commander, then government then opposed the longs slide.
The officer and commander are former builds of mine, the 5" is a customized S&W.
OK OK, looks nice, Mac. But looks can be deceiving. The million dollar question with 1911s - how's the trigger pull? I am glad you asked about that trigger. The initiated will notice that the trigger on the long slide is in fact a modified Colt Gold Cup trigger. The even more experienced should be asking: how'd you make that fit in there? Gold Cup triggers are about 50% thicker than standard 1911 triggers. As I do not yet (key word being yet) a bonafide Colt Gold Cup I did not know this off the bat. I had to hand file that sucker, removing a tenth or so from each side, evenly, so it would fit into the frame. That was challenging enough, but I got there. The other sticky wicket is the over travel stop in the trigger - if I took any more material off I am pretty sure I would have started exposing the threads on the over-travel screw. In any event it works and looks pretty slick to me - I also like the aggressive serrations on that trigger, really grabs the pad on my index finger.
Ok ok, back to the trigger performance. Its very smooth - having polished the trigger bow and the grooves it slides in on the frame helped a bit, but that's not where a trigger really matters. The fire control group is where triggers are made and lost. It has to break clean, preferably light, and not be unsafe - as in no hammer follow, no run on (full auto) firing.
So how'd we do?
This is the average of 10 pulls. Ill take it. Ok, so we have a purdy looking 1911 with a pretty solid competition trigger with an average a hair over #2. Nice Mac, but can it shoot? At this point in my basement tinkering - I have come to the conclusion that next to a well honed sear and hammer, the next best thing to accuracy is a tight barrel/bushing fit.
So how'd we do?
Isosceles stance, off hand, about 35 feet. Thats 10 rounds there, not too bad, and I'm no grand master. The thing is a bit clangy-ier than a 5" 1911 or shorter. Its heavy and recoil is pretty soft. It fits as well in the hand as any other 1911 and is a breeze to shoot.
So anyway, back to the point: what color? I like dark guns, I was thinking a SOCOM blue type color, maybe graphite, sniper gray, I dunno. A buddy suggested a plum color with red-ish grips, I can dig that. I have no intention of selling this thing, so its for me and me alone. What do you guys think? I'll try to make this a poll, but if I cant swing that - please feel free to post a color suggestion. I'll update this thread when I get around to coating it. Thanks.
So, first some pics and background.
First here she is:
Granted she is a little dirty. It took a few range trips to get the recoil spring worked out. They don't make standard springs for long slide 1911s. Its not like you can go grab a GI #18 and go from there. I bought the Wolff calibration pack and started in at the weakest and moved up from there. You can tell the spring weight is off by looking where/how the casings get ejected and what they look like. If they eject cleanly, tumbling to 2-3 o'clock and they aren't bashed to pieces, rim's eaten up or jam in some way, I call it done.
Well Mac, thats cute and all - but how much bigger is the 6" compared to Government model? Ok, take a look for yourself.
Here is part of the stable. From left to right, we have an officer, then a commander, then government then opposed the longs slide.
The officer and commander are former builds of mine, the 5" is a customized S&W.
OK OK, looks nice, Mac. But looks can be deceiving. The million dollar question with 1911s - how's the trigger pull? I am glad you asked about that trigger. The initiated will notice that the trigger on the long slide is in fact a modified Colt Gold Cup trigger. The even more experienced should be asking: how'd you make that fit in there? Gold Cup triggers are about 50% thicker than standard 1911 triggers. As I do not yet (key word being yet) a bonafide Colt Gold Cup I did not know this off the bat. I had to hand file that sucker, removing a tenth or so from each side, evenly, so it would fit into the frame. That was challenging enough, but I got there. The other sticky wicket is the over travel stop in the trigger - if I took any more material off I am pretty sure I would have started exposing the threads on the over-travel screw. In any event it works and looks pretty slick to me - I also like the aggressive serrations on that trigger, really grabs the pad on my index finger.
Ok ok, back to the trigger performance. Its very smooth - having polished the trigger bow and the grooves it slides in on the frame helped a bit, but that's not where a trigger really matters. The fire control group is where triggers are made and lost. It has to break clean, preferably light, and not be unsafe - as in no hammer follow, no run on (full auto) firing.
So how'd we do?
This is the average of 10 pulls. Ill take it. Ok, so we have a purdy looking 1911 with a pretty solid competition trigger with an average a hair over #2. Nice Mac, but can it shoot? At this point in my basement tinkering - I have come to the conclusion that next to a well honed sear and hammer, the next best thing to accuracy is a tight barrel/bushing fit.
So how'd we do?
Isosceles stance, off hand, about 35 feet. Thats 10 rounds there, not too bad, and I'm no grand master. The thing is a bit clangy-ier than a 5" 1911 or shorter. Its heavy and recoil is pretty soft. It fits as well in the hand as any other 1911 and is a breeze to shoot.
So anyway, back to the point: what color? I like dark guns, I was thinking a SOCOM blue type color, maybe graphite, sniper gray, I dunno. A buddy suggested a plum color with red-ish grips, I can dig that. I have no intention of selling this thing, so its for me and me alone. What do you guys think? I'll try to make this a poll, but if I cant swing that - please feel free to post a color suggestion. I'll update this thread when I get around to coating it. Thanks.
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