1911 Barrel Bushing

Joined
Feb 16, 2011
Messages
47
Likes
7
Location
South Coast, MA
Feedback: 2 / 0 / 0
The barrel bushing on my Remington 1911 requires me to use a wrench to move it. It feels like I am using way too much force to get it moving. I managed to fire the recoil spring across the cellar as well.

Does the pistol need to go to a smith or would having a new bushing help?

I looked at some on the Evolution Gun Works site, but the variety of thicknesses etc was confusing.

Thanks,
 
Is it hard to depress or twist? When you go to twist it is the spring fully depressed?

I use the wrench on my Kimber because the spring is really stiff, which it should be on a new gun.

My old Army Colt is well worn and I do it by hand. I don't really want to start changing parts on it but it could probably use a new spring.
 
Last edited:
The tighter the bushing the more accurate the gun. You should have to use a wrench. Just lube the bushing well. It will loosen up over time.
 
Both my 1911s need a wrench. If you're launching the recoil spring/cap across room try turning the bushing half or 3/4 of the way then turn it by hand the rest of the way with a couple of fingers holding the recoil spring cap under control so it won't go into orbit.
 
Well at least I am not alone. [smile]

I tried putting a little grease on the inside of the bushing, which of course made the plug harder to hold... I found it easier without the slide all the way forward, but I couldn't get the plug in that way.

The wrench seems a bit flimsy as well. Would a bit of grease on the outside of the bushing help as well?

Thanks,
 
The barrel bushing on my Remington 1911 requires me to use a wrench to move it. It feels like I am using way too much force to get it moving. I managed to fire the recoil spring across the cellar as well.

Does the pistol need to go to a smith or would having a new bushing help?

I looked at some on the Evolution Gun Works site, but the variety of thicknesses etc was confusing.

Thanks,

If you need to use a bushing wrench to move it, frankly that is a GOOD thing.

-Mike
 
Try this:

Being doubly certain pistol is unloaded, cock hammer, rest bottom rear corner of pistol on a bench, and with left hand push the slide back half an inch. With other hand, depress the plunger and, with thumb of left hand, see if the bushing moves more easily.

Historically, the rubric was that loose guns are reliable while tight guns are accurate. As a way of getting the best of both worlds, some builders now incorporate a bit of the "Commander bulge" in the forward most part of the barrel. This makes the lockup tight when the pistol is fully in battery, but lets it work far more loosely after the slide retracts the first half inch or so. Most Gold Cups and the SIG 1911s work this way. By moving the slide back half an inch, you position the bushing over the narrower part of the barrel and unlocking it can be done with "normal" force.
 
Back
Top Bottom