I was testing out some .45 Auto re-loads and had trouble with 6 out of 100 rounds. I was using my Ruger SR1911. I narrowed it down to a Chip McCormic magazine. I was able to fire quite a few rounds with the CM mags successfully but there was 6 that would not chamber no matter what i tried with them. Once i put them in the Ruger magazines that came with the gun they chambered and fired without problem. Every single cartridge was checked with calipers and a max cartridge cage. Any ideas? Any specific OAL for CM mags?
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Chambering Problems with .45 Auto
- Thread starter Chris.Cal
- Start date
How new are the mags, they might just need more break in time. I have similar issues with my new remington 1911 r1, the top round in the mag wont chamber easily when fully loaded, so I filled them 1 short and they worked.
I have the two magazines that came with the the gun and also bought a Chip McCormic. They are all fairly new, less than 150 rounds through each one. These are my first couple hundred handloads so I'm leaning towards my own errors somewhere down the line. I never had any feeding issues with WWB or Fed. Champ. I also tried factory ammo for the first few but there was still the half dozen that wouldn't feed with the Chip mags.
My reloads were all between 1.250 to 1.255 OAL, it's not making much sense to me.
Insufficient crimp can cause failures to chamber. If the flare isn't completely removed it can act like a scoop and pick up enough soot to prevent chambering. This problem usually arises after the gun has been fired 40 or 50 times.
I load almost all of my .45 ACP rounds to 1.250 and have had no problems with CmC mags.
I load almost all of my .45 ACP rounds to 1.250 and have had no problems with CmC mags.
Crimp is a possibility, I crimp my reloads to .469. Leaving a sharp corner sticking up will cause your problem. Many mags just do not work very well. If the round isn't making proper contact with the feed ramp, rounds will just seem to stick before chambering. I like mags with round followers better than the flat ones as they just have worked better for me. A rough feed ramp or one that is not quite on the right angle can also cause your problem. A too tight extractor or one that is mis-shaped sometimes causes problems as well.
My money is on the extractor being tight. I bet the Ruger mags have stronger springs. Do the rounds that won't chamber have the same headstamp? Are the rims thicker than the ones that will chamber?
If your rounds gaged OK, then the crimp is OK.
If your rounds gaged OK, then the crimp is OK.
+1 on the above, have seen it before. Adjusting the 1911 internal extractor can be an art at times. I have also had lots of trouble with CMC mags, one of the issues is the follower can work it's way forward. Two things then happen you scratch your feed ramp and the last round always has an issue feeding. As far as crimp goes make sure you have a good taper crimp. Most 45ACP dies crimp that way, but they need to be properly adjusted. I always pass my match rounds through a single stage press with a taper crimp die in it as a sort of "guarantee"...
There were probably 90 federal cases with small primers and the other 10 were fiocci also with small primers. The six that wouldn't chamber were federal. I pulled the extractor it was a little dirty but nothing out of the ordinary. The gun only has about 500 rounds through it.
Clean the mags, if they are some what new and you never cleaned them there could be some anti rust compound built up in there. I purchased several S&W mags as NEW OLD STOCK for my 4013tsw. All but 1 mag new in wrapper plus the spring was wrapped in that rust preventive paper wrap Inside the mag!
Mags get dirty fast. I have had several brands of 1911 mags that just do not function well in one gun but do fine in the other. Funny my best mags are the 7 round ones that came with my first S&W 1911. they fell cheap and look just as cheap also. They are about 8 years old now, still function 100%
I found when first reloading cast bullets the lube would build up on anything it contacts over time(use lee tumble lube). I now tumble my completed rounds to get the lube off.
Mags get dirty fast. I have had several brands of 1911 mags that just do not function well in one gun but do fine in the other. Funny my best mags are the 7 round ones that came with my first S&W 1911. they fell cheap and look just as cheap also. They are about 8 years old now, still function 100%
I found when first reloading cast bullets the lube would build up on anything it contacts over time(use lee tumble lube). I now tumble my completed rounds to get the lube off.
check your brass and see if the headstamp is winchester nt (non toxic), federal nt, etc. i found that the shells with the nt wont chamber fully in my P345. i dont have a problem with any other brass just those with nt on them. they also wont fully fit in my chamber gauge. i dont know it this is a problem for others or not; maybe its just my gun.
I can't be sure without actually seeing the case, but a ding in the forward part of the extractor groove is a sign of an extractor that is too long. This might interfere with feeding. It can also cause the extractor to break. The solution to an extractor that is too long is to remove enough material from the point of contact to allow proper clearance. This must be done very carefully as extractors are expensive.
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good info on the extractor i learned somthing,i bet the crimp is not rite or un even powder charge causing slide to no go all the way back
on some rounds and not allowing the bullet enough time to enter chamber strait.only a theory,my glock does it when my powder thrower gets damp.
on some rounds and not allowing the bullet enough time to enter chamber strait.only a theory,my glock does it when my powder thrower gets damp.
I was about to write about the same thing. As near as I can tell from the photo, the magazine is pretty much out of the equation at the point where the round appears to have hung up.
If you go to page 61 of Jerry Kuhnhausen's .45 book you'll see a discussion of what I think may be the issue.
