DrRansom
Instructor
I loaded 800 the other night, maybe 3 hours? I wasn't really cranking as hard as I could. (Hornady LnL)
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I think I am interested in getting in to reloading...
- Thread starter crazymjb
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I loaded 800 the other night, maybe 3 hours? I wasn't really cranking as hard as I could. (Hornady LnL)
I don't like the kits because I don't like everything that a single manufacturer makes. Especially Lee.
Years ago I got back into reloading after a hiatus and made the mistake of buying a Lee Anniversary Kit. I've since given away everything in the kit except the book (which I hardly use) and the powder measure (which I use for my classes).
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I also don't like the kits for one reason:
They charge a LOT for the convenience of giving you what they think you need.
You can usually do much better on prices if you buy components for your needs, individually. And, for some of the stuff, a used version is fine, and much cheaper.
For example, I have several single station RCBS presses that are at least 20 years old, and still work fine. Paid about $50 for each of them. That's a heck of a lot cheaper than NEW.
They charge a LOT for the convenience of giving you what they think you need.
You can usually do much better on prices if you buy components for your needs, individually. And, for some of the stuff, a used version is fine, and much cheaper.
For example, I have several single station RCBS presses that are at least 20 years old, and still work fine. Paid about $50 for each of them. That's a heck of a lot cheaper than NEW.
So for the press I have narrowed it down to either the Lee Classic Cast or the Classic Cast with breech lock. I've heard mixed things about the breech lock feature. The extra 15 bucks isn't an issue, I just wanted to know if it works well/reliably enough to justify it.
Any recommendations on powder measures, or rather anything to avoid.
Mike
Any recommendations on powder measures, or rather anything to avoid.
Mike
First Off, Semper Fi, and thanks for your service. I am a Former 0311. I like to tell people that didn't go 0331 because I humped enough Pigs in the P.I., so humping one in the field didn't interest me.
Second, I can tell you that your choice of a relatively inexpensive Lee Single Stage Press is the way to go. I am loading 5 calibers on a Lee Single Stage, and I couldn't be happier.
With my 550B I can do 400 rounds of 9mm in an hour easily if everything is ready, including having loaded primer tubes.... and that's without a case feeder.
It's tough to add in accounting for the other stuff, though, like brass prep (clean and polish), media separation, headstamp sorting (if desired, although typically unnecessary) etc. Primer tubes generally fill fast. I often fill them while I am working on a PC waiting for it to do something. (eg downloads, updates, etc. )
-Mike
Who said anything about humping? I'm in a weapons company, I'm not trying to walk. Glad to have some reassurance on the single stage route, I am feeling less and less like the breach lock thing is worth it. If you can put indexing screws on the dies may as well go that route, especially if I will also have a progressive press to use the dies in in the future.
Mike
Is there a significant quality difference between going Hornady LnL versus Dillon? I can use some BassPro gifts cards to cut down the cost of the LnL. It seems like the Dillon is only sold at certain places.
The Breech Lock thing never pumped my nads. The Lee standard dies work fine, and have yet to go out of adjustment on me. I've reloaded thousands of .45 Auto rounds without a hitch. The best part about starting small is that if you decide to quit, you will always be able to sell off your stuff. I am self taught, and if I had to do it over, I think I'd have taken a class first, so I would recommend that. Also, with pistol calibers, don't cheap out on the dies, get carbides, or you'll be fooling around with lubing cases when you don't have to.
I've never used the breechlock from Lee, but I love the L-N-L bushing system that Hornady uses. I even put it on an RCBS press that I bought from Bendad97.
I've owned several 550s and now do almost all of my progressive reloading on an L-N-L.
beaker
NES Member
If you are interested in reloading take EC's class. Best $ you could spend and do it before you buy anything. You get all the info you need.
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The only thing I don't like about the LNL system is that it makes storing the dies difficult. Most of my dies are Redding sizers, Forester seaters with a smattering of RCBS, LEE & Hornady specialty dies.
From the pictures online, the Lee Classic Cast, and Breach Lock Classic Cast appear to be slightly different.
B
From the pictures online, the Lee Classic Cast, and Breach Lock Classic Cast appear to be slightly different.
B
MisterHappy
NES Member
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As a source, consider eBay....I've sold a lot of the stuffover the years, and you can save a bunch if you know what you're looking for and have a high-positive-feedback seller.
DrRansom
Instructor
The LnL is more akin to the Dillon 650 than the 550, so consider that when pricing. Also, Hornady also gives out a bunch of free bullets (I took the 5 boxes of JHP .45) with all of their stuff, it's over a $100 value...
Well I pulled the trigger on a classic cast press, carbide dies for. 40, and dies for. 223 and 30-06. I also ordered a tumbler, hand primer, some trays, digital scale and caliper, and trickler as well as a couple other odds and ends. Ill need a good data book, I wasn't sure if a powder measure/dispenser was immediately necessary. I bought higher reviewed items under the buy once theory.
My mom wants some new shelving in the garage... so I think Ill extend my old work bench
Mike
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My mom wants some new shelving in the garage... so I think Ill extend my old work bench
Mike
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powder measure is a big plus, hand measureing is a pain. IF your going to try and use LEE's powder scoops buy the entire set and find the scoop that throws the correct charge for your powder.
I dont know who calibrated these or for what powder but the one that came with my 38sp die set is way off for the powders I use and doesnt match the chart with the die set ?????
I dont know who calibrated these or for what powder but the one that came with my 38sp die set is way off for the powders I use and doesnt match the chart with the die set ?????
I use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure for larger charges, but for my pistol ammo and smaller rifle charges I use the RCBS Little Dandy. It meters most powders pretty well, the throws are consistent, and it's pretty much idiot proof.
So whats needed for the class? Just pay and show up, no equipment?
Yup. I bring the equipment, books, and tools. Just bring a pen.
DrRansom
Instructor
I would say for starters, grab one of the digital scales in the $30-40 range (Hornady, F. Armory) and do a simple load work-up - start at 10% under max. I don't know if you're implying using one of the scoops without weighing the charge, but if you are, don't do that. Even an inaccurate scale is still more accurate than a scoop, and could save you a bad day.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/438260/hornady-gs-1500-electronic-powder-scale-1500-grain-capacity
For about 95% of my personal reloading I use Hornady case-activated powder measures.
For the remaining 5%, I use a Lee Perfect Powder measure. (I use the Lees for my classes too because of cost).
For the remaining 5%, I use a Lee Perfect Powder measure. (I use the Lees for my classes too because of cost).
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Just an update, I've gone through and de-primed, tumbled, and sized about 250 .40 cases and 400 .223 cases. Doing it with a friend it actually didn't take too long, even on the single stage press. I ended up going with crushed walnut bird cage stuff from a pet store and a little bit of car wax for the media. In terms of the actual primers, powder, and projectiles, I'm still waiting on some components, but I think I have that part pretty well figured out. Hopefully I get possession of those within the next week or so. I priced it out and I am looking at about 10 cents a round for .40. I also decided to order the lee pro auto disk powder measure as it had mostly positive reviews, especially for my needs. I figure my more accuracy aimed loadings I will probably finalize by hand anyway.
I'm getting together components to make about 2K rounds worth of .40 as that will be about my break even point on my initial investment. I figure reloading .223 will bring me into the 14 cents a round or so neighborhood, and I still have thousands of rounds of steel cased stuff to blow through at 20 cents a round, so no reason to rush with the .223 reloads yet. 40 on the other hand I'd like to shoot a lot more, especially because I feel I should be getting much more trigger time on my carry gun.
Right now I am looking to use CCI#500 small pistol primers, Aliant Unique powder, and cast lead 180 grain round nose flat point bullets. From what I have read, with cast bullets the recommendation seems to be follow the powder loading guide -10%
This is actually kind of enjoyable and I found myself either just doing it 5-10 minutes a day or when hanging out with a friend. If I keep at it, I will definitely end up with a progressive press, though, especially when I am back at school and the range is 5 minutes down the street.
Thanks for the help guys and I will keep you updated.
Mike
I'm getting together components to make about 2K rounds worth of .40 as that will be about my break even point on my initial investment. I figure reloading .223 will bring me into the 14 cents a round or so neighborhood, and I still have thousands of rounds of steel cased stuff to blow through at 20 cents a round, so no reason to rush with the .223 reloads yet. 40 on the other hand I'd like to shoot a lot more, especially because I feel I should be getting much more trigger time on my carry gun.
Right now I am looking to use CCI#500 small pistol primers, Aliant Unique powder, and cast lead 180 grain round nose flat point bullets. From what I have read, with cast bullets the recommendation seems to be follow the powder loading guide -10%
This is actually kind of enjoyable and I found myself either just doing it 5-10 minutes a day or when hanging out with a friend. If I keep at it, I will definitely end up with a progressive press, though, especially when I am back at school and the range is 5 minutes down the street.
Thanks for the help guys and I will keep you updated.
Mike
I finished my first batch of 200 .40 cal rounds, I'll be testing them next week. I made 3 loadings using Aliant Unique, CCI #500 primers, and cast 180 grain flat point round nose bullets with about 5.5, 5.8 and 6.1 grains of powder (aliant recommends 6.7 with FMJ bullets, I have read to load cast bullets down by 10%).
I ended up ordering a lee auto disk pro, and I have to say it seems to work exceptionally well with the unique powder.
I did size and prime about 250 .223 casings and 130 30-06 casings, and the 30-06 casings were a pain. After one sizing though they all still were falling under the maximum case length, but the next go around they will definitely need to be trimmed.
I ended up paying a bit more than I would have liked for the first go around of actual materials, but once I get an idea for what works I will definitely buy in bulk in the future.
Mike
I ended up ordering a lee auto disk pro, and I have to say it seems to work exceptionally well with the unique powder.
I did size and prime about 250 .223 casings and 130 30-06 casings, and the 30-06 casings were a pain. After one sizing though they all still were falling under the maximum case length, but the next go around they will definitely need to be trimmed.
I ended up paying a bit more than I would have liked for the first go around of actual materials, but once I get an idea for what works I will definitely buy in bulk in the future.
Mike
Congrats! I'm hopefully going to get started with mine this week. Personally loading 200 right off the bat is kind of risky. I would hate to have to pull that many if they were underpowered and didn't cycle the gun properly.
