SKS questions and possible answers

[SKS Ray]

A lot of people here have refered to me as the resident SKS expert. That title is an honor that I can't claim because while I love these rifles and have a decent knowledge of them, there is still so much I don't know. I'm happy though to have been able to help many of you with SKS issues and questions, and always enjoy spending your money when you ask what you should buy.

I've been fortunate enough to make friends with other SKS collectors like martin08 and after talking with him have decided to make this thread in the Mil Surp Collectors forum for people looking for trouble shooting info, and general collecting questions.

Who knows, maybe we can get the Guru of Chinese codes Howard Bearse to chime in as well.

If you've got a question regarding SKS carbines be it function, etc. post it here and we'll do our best to help.

 

[GunGrey]

I think a custom title is in order, and thanks for the help in the thread i kinda hijacked

 

[martin08]

Welcome all inquisitors of Samozaryadniy Karabin sistemi Simonova, the self-loading carbine of Sergei Simonov - or simply - SKS.

As Ray disclaimed above, I'm not an expert either. But between us, we have plenty of enthusiasm, experience and bit of knowledge and history of this popular gun. Oh, and we may have the largest combined collections in the NE. So, if you have questions, ask away. At best, you'll get competent information. At worst you'll get a conversation and a learning opportunity.

We'll do our best to help!

Martin08

 

[Kalahari]

Just noticed this yesterday while checking my 59/66 for hammer/sear engagement (turned out neutral):

When cocked, should the hammer be off to the left, as shown? Or more center? It doesn't seem to actually make contact with the receiver, but could it cause any issues?

Thanks guys.

 

[SKS Ray]

I'll let martin08 take this one since he has actually rebuilt some SKSs.

 

[martin08]

I guess that I would have to know if the hammer seems to rest off to the left with the trigger group removed from the gun as well? If so, then there is either an off centered trunion pin mating (either on the hammer strut or trigger group frame), or the hammer strut itself may be slightly bent.

Also, you could take the stock off and reinstall the trigger group (with and without a mag) on the receiver to see if the position changes. The front of the group is positioned with pins and could be canted in that area, or on the rear where it is normally spring tensioned, the pressure might be cocking it off to one side.

I don't know if any of these possibilities will ever created a problem, though. The single point latch at the rear allows the group to float just a small amount under spring tension, and as long as that hammer clears, you should be good to go. I've never encountered this observation as an issue - but it's a great observation.

It'll be interesting to hear how the hammer rests with the stock removed. Hope this helps!

 

[Kalahari]

Martin, unfortunately I won't be able to break down the rifle until the wintertime. Thanks for the information though!

 

[martin08]

Wow! That's a long wait???? Can you at least fire it in the summer?

 

[joey]

i just shot my uncle chinese sks for the first time yesterday. I was wondering do they have doble action trigers. Because on his you pole the trigger a little bit then it gets tight and you can pull again. also when the bullet casing comes out the gun after you shoot some bullet ends are a little bent

 

[martin08]

Good question Joey.

The SKS trigger is not double action. The rearward travel of the bolt sets the hammer at rest on top of a sear block. The sensation that you are experience is called 1st and 2nd stage creep, pull, or travel. In the first stage, the trigger bar moves freely until it comes into contact with the sear. During the first stage, there is little to no chance for the hammer to release.

Once you feel the "bump" of the trigger bar against the sear, you are entering the second stage which moves the sear out from under the hammer and releases it forward. A fairly comprehensive description of how the trigger can be improved can be found here.

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/wolffsksspring/index.asp

My personal preference is to leave the original factory springs in the gun and instead, simply reduce the friction or "grit" from the second stage pull by removing the sear from the trigger group and smoothing out the grooves in the sear and the rails on the housing frame. This improvement alone can do wonders for lightening and smoothing out the second stage pull, and give you a consistent, crisp hammer release.

Here is another good link that will explain sear engagement
.
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/skstriggertips/index.asp

If you think that you may have negative sear engagement, it may be best to have an experienced SKS trigger group gunsmith correct the problem. Many home attempts have resulted in adverse or even dangerous conditions.

A good place to send your trigger group for enhancements is to Kivaari.

http://www.kivaari.com/SKS Target Match.htm


As to the second part of your inquiry, is it possible to explain where the casings are bent? Mouth? Neck? Shoulder? Base?
There are many possibilities, but the most common is premature rebound due to aftermarket installation of recoil buffers or improperly installed recoil springs (squiggly end goes in first), causing the mouth of the casing to contact the receiver as the bolt comes forward too soon.

 

[joey]

Just wondering my dad finally got an sks for us to shoot. It is a chinese. The question is the wooden and metal cover that covers the gas chamer rode wiggles side to side a little bit is that normal. Just in case you dont under atand me the cover tord the front of the barrel.

 

[SKS Ray]

Just wondering my dad finally got an sks for us to shoot. It is a chinese. The question is the wooden and metal cover that covers the gas chamer rode wiggles side to side a little bit is that normal. Just in case you dont under atand me the cover tord the front of the barrel.

If you mean there is some side to side play in the gas tube or the top handguard its should be ok. It just means its a little worn or poorly fit but should function fine in a Chinese SKS.

 

[martin08]

Congratulations on an SKS to shoot, Joey. Always shoot responsibly and safely.

To begin. It is important to know two particular items on the SKS before taking it to the range.

1. Be sure the bolt/firing pin channel is completely cleaned and the firing pin re-installed correctly. A sticking firing pin can cause slamfires.

2. Check the trigger group for hammer engagement. Positive engagement means that (with the gun unloaded) you can take the rear cover off and watch the hammer move slightly rearward before it drops when the trigger is pulled. Neutral engagement means that the hammer remains still until it drops. Negative engagement means that the hammer creeps forward before releasing.

Neutral or positive engagement is good. Negative engagement is not good. It means that the hammer could possibly drop from an outside "bump", such as dropping the gun. Negative engagement can be remedied if needed.

As far as the forward gas tube is concerned, as long as the front of the tube is firmly in place and the piston seals inside the tube, you should be OK. There is plenty of room for tolerance where the rear of the piston contacts the operating rod.

 

[50 BMG]

Question

Since I have only a few SKS rifles I was wondering between the two of you maybe you could help me with a quest. Its not a noble quest but one of selfish intent. I WANT AN EAST GERMAN SKS!!!!!! Ok guys where are they?

I do realize that I will have to wait until Ray gets his but if there are two of them count me in..please.

I do have to say however that out of all of my SKS collection one of my favorites is one of my Yugos. It is a 59 and the workmanship is simply outstanding. Don't get me wrong, I love the Russian specimens I have and the other com bloc countries too. Its something about Yugo firearms . They are built like a tank. Take the M57 pistol. Compared to all the others it is IMO a finer built weapon. But I digress. I really need a East German to round out my collection. I feel.....well incomplete

In all seriousness, this is a great way to share info and tips. The only better way would be for all of us to meet at a range and bring some, notice I said some, of our favorites and make a day of it.

 

[martin08]

Oh, man... that was rude. Please forgive me, 50BMG.


The DDR guns that are known and tracked by the SKS gurus on Sruvivor's SKS Board number under ten at this time. My chance happening of landing one was like hitting the lottery, the trifecta and the leprechaun's pot-o-gold all on the same day.

But if we get together for a shoot, you'll have to get in line. Ray is already chomping at the bit just for the chance to hold it.

I'll keep my eyes open for you!

 

[peteyb]

I just bought a Norinco SKS and want to give it a good cleaning before I shoot it. I can figure out how to take the gun apart by looking at the many guides around, however I am a little confused on how to clean the rifle once its apart, despite looking at several guides on how to clean it. Exactly what parts need to be cleaned and with what cleaning products should they be cleaned with (if you have a link to amazon/similar website that would help). This is my first gun so I am not great at knowing every single piece inside the gun, so any kind of pictures would really help. Thanks alot.

 

[martin08]

The three most important things to clean in the action are:

1. Firing pin channel
2. Trigger group
3. Bolt Hold Open/Magazine Follower combination.

The firing pin must be removed by punching out the firing pin retainer from left to right on a solid span that allows the pin to fall through. I use a drift punch with a 1/4 head and a two pound ballpeen to get the pin started, and finish with a 3/16" pin punch. The firing pin then exits through the rear of the bolt. Observe the position of the pin carefully, there is an Up and Down. Clean the pin channel with brakleen and a pipe cleaner. Reassemble and do not oil excessively, just a wipe down will do. If the channel is clear, then the firing pin will rattle when the bolt is shaken.

For the trigger group, I use Brakleen and compressed air. Oil it liberally and blow out excess oil with compressed air.

In the receiver, the bolt hold open button is spring loaded. Again, brakleen-air, oil-air, while moving the button up and down until it is completely free. The mag arm and follower also work with the Bolt Hold Open, so they get the same cleaner-oil-air-free movement application.

Hope this helps, and thank you for asking. Safety is first, and cleaning is definitely the initial step of safe operation for the SKS.

 

[Broc]

did any of you take your sks hunting?

I have a nice yugo sks, and i found out it makes a great coyote gun.

ps: i did not modify it, or changed the stock or put on a crappy scope. I use it the way i bought it, and the way it was meant to be used (except i dont shoot people with it)

now that my mauser collection is almost full, i might get into the sks or maybe just a Russian and Czech gun collection. i have to make up my mind.

 

[martin08]

did any of you take your sks hunting?

I have a nice yugo sks, and i found out it makes a great coyote gun.

ps: i did not modify it, or changed the stock or put on a crappy scope. I use it the way i bought it, and the way it was meant to be used (except i dont shoot people with it)

now that my mauser collection is almost full, i might get into the sks or maybe just a Russian and Czech gun collection. i have to make up my mind.

Sorry it took so long to respond to your question, Broccoli. I've been out hunting this week with my SKS!

Pictured here are the Chinese paratrooper and a Yugo-american-nese gun that I built from parts. My cousin and I are out in the North Maine woods this week. You can see Saddleback Mountain, Mount Abraham, and some of that white sticky stuff that fell in the high elevations today.

And here is the spikehorn that I took with my Yugo two years ago.

So as you can see, hunting with the SKS is quite possible. I use a 154g Soft Point projectile.

 

[50 BMG]

Notice the SKS that martin08 is holding. Its a Yugo, one of my favorites!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Broc]

nice pictures.

i've been thinking about getting some hunting land up in maine, maybe 100 acres.

If you guys want to fix the night sights, go look at GLOW INC, they ahve some really bright green paint. I also ordered some glow in the dark dots from night sighters, see which one glows more.

 

[bullseye]

Martin, After seeing your Yugo in wood, I have decided to put one of my Yugo's back into its original condition. Currently I have both Yugos wearing Tapco attire, but the wood just has that look to it, It's also just fun to work on guns!!
Bullseye

 

[martin08]

I think you have made a good decision! One nice original configuration gun equals two in the bush.... um, Tapco furniture (heh-heh).

I do have one mongrel-parts-mix-master that I put into plastic, but the rest of them stay put in wood.

 

[amb]

I have a Yugo 59/66 on which the follower doesn't push the bolt hold-open all the way up. I've seen at least one other Yugo with the same problem.

I've mostly solved it by bending the follower arm up just a bit, but it's really hard steel and I figure I was 50/50 on just snapping it instead. Any better way of increasing the engagement here? It's now OK, but I wouldn't mind a much more solid push to get the bolt stop reliably all the way up. I didn't want to mess with the follower itself, but that may be the right answer.

 

[SKS Ray]

I have a Yugo 59/66 on which the follower doesn't push the bolt hold-open all the way up. I've seen at least one other Yugo with the same problem.

I've mostly solved it by bending the follower arm up just a bit, but it's really hard steel and I figure I was 50/50 on just snapping it instead. Any better way of increasing the engagement here? It's now OK, but I wouldn't mind a much more solid push to get the bolt stop reliably all the way up. I didn't want to mess with the follower itself, but that may be the right answer.

Did you try replacing the spring?

#11 on the diagram from Numrich: http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=11936
I've had to replace one on a 59/66 and it solved the problem. Also make sure that entire area is completely free of cosmolene. Yugos have some of the thickest and stickiest cosmo out of any SKS next to the Albanians.

I'm guessing you've already checked the spring in the bolt carrier. Coiled end inside the carrier and straight end towards the rear of the receiver.

 

[martin08]

I'll second the sticky cosmo. My 59/66 in the picture needed quite a work out with brakleen and compressed air to clean out the bolt-hold-open button.

But if the button springs freely by hand depressing and letting go, a new spring on the follower arm in the mag might give enough added rate to activate.

 

[mac1911]

Some Rusian and Romanian questions, markings ect

I just happen to notice a mark on my russian, I really never looked it over either I purchased this gun in 1989 it was the cheapest semi auto in the shop other than a .22 cal

Its a 1954 Izhevsk Arsenal 4 digit serial number, all matching numbers and not a rebuild to my knowing.
The new mark that showed its face is just in front of the magazine on the stock
it is a circle with a N or a Z in side ? There is also a triangle in the grip area ?

Romanian is a recent purchase from century(cracked stock model) but is in great shape other than a firepin issue. reciever bolt and carrier match.
Cleaning the bolt for the 10th time or so I noticed a 54 stamped inside one of the rail channels on the bolt ? Any ideas.

And yes I will add another note to cleaning the bolt very very good.

I stripped and cleaned my romanian bolt. All was well until I got a miss fire. Fire pin was stuck forward. I took it apart cleaned again until it rattles,,,,,,,,50 shots later stuck again. This time the pin was clearly bent as I had to really fource it out of the bolt.
OK found a pin in my Box-O-Parts drop in all is well. Friend shot 50 rounds through it last week(loved it, he was holding 5 shot,4" groups @ 100 yards open sights.) I snuck out today bang bang bang click. This time the bolt was stuck to the rear
I came home and cleaned that ^&*(&^$ I then hit with the heat gun thinking maybe there is a snot of cosmo somewhere in the channel!

BANG there it is a small super thin copper/brass shinny thingy almost a perfect half cone as it may have been wedged in the nose of the fire pin channel, almost looks like a primer cup ? I looked at all my shells from this gun(I even keep the steel cases) I found none with a missing primer cup Im guessing this was in there the hole time just sitting there like mayhem waiting.....arrggghhh. I have a murreys spring fir pin on the way....

 

[martin08]

The cartouches are quite common on the non-refurb stocks. Here are two on my '53 Tula. The first is directly in front of the mag well, and the second is on the wrist.

And do you think it is possible that the popped primer was in there from the beginning on the Romy? I have damaged two pins from popped primers before. It's usually quite evident when the primer pierces, as well. Lot's of smoke rolls out of the chamber.

Any way to get pics up of that Izzy?

 

[mac1911]

I do think it was lodged in there when it arrived...cool.

 

[SKS Ray]

Any way to get pics up of that Izzy?

First dibs if he decides to sell!!