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100% Matching 1892 M89 Danish Krag-Jorgensen.

majspud

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The M89 Danish Krag came today, and it is quite impressive. LONG rifle at a little over 52 inches. Didn't have much time to do anything tonight save a first cleaning of the bore: bore foam/patches/brass brush with CLP/patches with CLP and the bore snake. The patch pushing out the foam was jet black. What I thought was a fair bore turned out to be good overall; ending patches were medium/light gray. A run of electrolysis should help, but very nice for an original 1892 barrel - decent rifling and no real pitting I could see. Crummy bore pick, but it gives an idea.

Couple of quick pics now; hope to fix the duffel cut in the near future. Have a line of a M1915 web sling from Denmark - will know Monday. Now to find just a couple of rounds to try it before I invest in the reloading equipment.

T





 
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Outside pics with the last of the daylight today. Looks like a lot of light surface rust; I'll take care of that with a light cleaning with brass wool when I do the duffel cut repair.

T





























 
Duffel cut fixed. One of the easiest I have done.

It seems some one had tried a repair with a double ended brad or nail and glue. This saved me the trouble of trying to line up the halves without a cleaning rod channel.





I drilled a hole in each end and used a 4" threaded steel rod as usual. I trimmed off the old glue, used Gorilla epoxy for the rod and AcraGlass to put the halves together.



I taped the halves together and to a meter stick to keep the repair alinged in both the lateral and horizontal.



I strengthened the repair with my inset brass staple technique with Gorilla glue. I also added four smaller inset staple gun staples for lateral support.





While everything was drying I worked on the metal very lightly with CLP and 4X steel wool to remove the patches of light surface rust, leaving the patina intact. Barrel was bright blue under the wood-line. The stock has very few dings and scratches. I didn't even see the need to oil, so a coat of Howard's Feed and Wax finished up the project.

I add a couple of finished shots tomorrow.

T
 
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Morning pics; all cleaned up. I'm so pleased with one. I don't plan on shooting this one much; I'd just like to find a few rounds to try it out. I've a line on a M15 canvas sling from Denmark. Then I'll have to look around for a bayonet. They're expensive, about $200.







Anyone know what this lever does? it does not seem to affect the bolt in any way nor act as a safety.



T
 
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Found the secret. With the lever down, this interrupting bar pokes down from the top left of the receiver cutting off the magazine and putting the rifle into single shot mode.



T
 
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Done for the weekend. Hit the bore twice with 9V electrolysis. Cleaning came out blacker than the first time. Bore foam, brass brush, CLP patches and bore snake twice as well. Ended up a good plus. Too cool.



T
 
Will mosin guages work for headspace? You could also call xxxxxx we discussed who for odd ammo before andd see if they can send 1 each of the 2 rim thickness brass. Then oder
brass or ammo of proper thickness? Sent pm.
 
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No idea on the Moisen case; is the rim .060 or .070?

T

Looking like it will be .060; I hope to find out Monday.
 
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I have a home-made system. I have a steel rod wrapped at the bottom with electrical tape and at three inch intervals up the rod. There is also a piece at the muzzle. Any metal-metal contact will short the system. I plug the breech with a rubber stopper, insert the rod, and connect a funnel to the muzzle with a short length of rubber tubing. I add a water based liquid with a catalyst (like vinegar, Epsom salts (magnesium carbonate), Washing soda (sodium carbonate), etc.) into the bore overflowing just a little into the funnel. I connect the positive 9V battery terminal with an alligator clip and wire to the rod, and the negative pole to the front sight, or the integral bayonet mount in this case. The electrical current between the bore and the rod is connected by the liquid. The dirt and crud becomes negatively charged and the bubbling action (hydrogen and oxygen) from the electrolysis caused by decomposition of the water releases the crud. The crud is then attracted to the positive part of the system (the rod) or bubbles up to the top. What does not directly come off is much easier to clean out afterwards. I run it about 10 minutes, wipe the rod, and repeat with fresh liquid.

T
 
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Thanks for the detailed reply! Would you care to share any "secret formulas" for the solution, or does that depend on a subjective evaluation of the bore?
 
Nothing special. This time I used a CVS carbonated lemon-lime over-the-counter enemetic (magnesium citrate) from their pharmacy as I forgot the vinegar at the grocery store. The extra bubbles from the CO2 seemed to help that much more.

I'm a chemistry teacher by day, and a FFL3 collector by night.[grin]

T
 
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Danish M15 sling came today, and I got some better pictures of the bore. A little rougher in close up than from the naked eye. Now I need a bayonet, but I may be interrupted by a M91 Finned Westinghouse...















T
 
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Nice! Is this the sling from Bisgaard & Nielsen?

Yes. They said they had one coming in about a week after I talked to you. I had to bug them for a couple weeks, but they came through.

T



I've wanted one of these for so long; even before I started collecting C&R, I knew what type of Krag my grandfather had carried. It's the background on my computer desktop for now.
 
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