1-6x scope - zero at 100yd or 50yd?

But T box vs jaw at room distances is a huge difference. Plenty of guys have continued to fight with a jaw shot. Slight deflections can mean that nothing of consequence is hit.
most competitions do not allow it, but, for real life scenarios, at room distances, on any weapon - i always keep advocating for lasers. a simplest point and shoot, and, it works very well.
and, anybody can use it. just point and shoot.
View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W459Y5F
 
That chart is dependent on the height over bore of the sight.

Ok, all I know is that the rifle is right on at 50 and I was pinging the steel plates at 100 yards every time. A man sized upper torso at 200 or 300 yards ? Not going to miss that either. For the purposes I built the rifle for that's good enough. If I want precision then I break out the AR with a 24" bbl (and a bipod cuz I can't hold the thing up offhand. lol) and do 1" groups at 100 yards.
 
Eh, minute of man is acceptable out past 200-300 yards I think. Where you just want to take them out of the fight and aren’t worried about an immediate response from them. Anything closer and I want to be able to hit within 3” for a vital shot.

But T box vs jaw at room distances is a huge difference. Plenty of guys have continued to fight with a jaw shot. Slight deflections can mean that nothing of consequence is hit.

Look, I've seen the report of a guy taking 6 .357 rounds point blank, all center mass. The guy remained standing, for a bit. Killed the cop that shot him. Yes, yes things go wrong. But if you are hitting the bowling pin, you're going to hit something important. I seriously doubt .223 is going to not shatter everything behind the jaw, if not hit one of the major arteries running through there with either a brass fragment, or a bone fragment. It's about consistently hitting vital areas. We are talking elevation here, not windage. Yes, some other factors come into play, I'd rather miss high or low than left or right. If I miss high and take out his trachea instead of his heart (which would be to the right a little as well), I'm good with that.

And actually, I was thinking something else when the T box was mentioned. My mind went to bowling pin (we have a target with a bowling pin scoring area, head and upper chest), my training is all about center mass. I tend to forget headshots. Besides, Coral survived a headshot, so it must be a thing.
 
... I seriously doubt .223 is going to not shatter everything behind the jaw, if not hit one of the major arteries running through there with either a brass fragment, or a bone fragment....

Reports and instances coming out of Iraq, Afghanistan, and Syria show otherwise. Both with U.S. personnel and enemy combatants. Yes, what you describe can happen, but it is far from guaranteed. But yes, missing low is better than missing high.
 
Reports and instances coming out of Iraq, Afghanistan, and Syria show otherwise. Both with U.S. personnel and enemy combatants. Yes, what you describe can happen, but it is far from guaranteed. But yes, missing low is better than missing high.

That's all I was saying, and as I said, my brain just farted on the Tbox issue. I train headshots for fun, it's a skillset you can improve. In a real situation, I'm much more a fan of 2-1, either high or low. The hip box has a lot of blood flow as well. I had a friend die from a femoral shot. He was pretty much done when he hit the ground.
edit: also, if you shatter the pelvis, he isn't standing anymore.
 
No hold-unders with 100 yd zero. The last thing I want to have to think about if I’m shooting is extra math.
what you want is a point blank range zero.
Pick a happy medium , lets say your looking to hit a 6" target from 0 -X yards with out holding over/under
now this will vary some depending on your choice of ammo but for "hits on target" Or "CQ" with the ability to give a few pokes out to distance.
You can run point blank range or "battle" zero.

barrel , length , scope height , velocity all come into play

Also knowing the subtensions of your reticle is also important. Unless the optic maker states different its always on the highest magnification. Which will change your hash mar zeros. Get to know your reticle. The image below is for MRAD , dont know why they dont have the MOA subtensions? Maybe in the instructions ?
1606338160550.png

for the most part the 50 yard zero will get you hits on target out to 250 yards of a torso size targets.

poking around I found the manual with MOA reticle..... basically each hash mark is 4 moa spacing on 6X

 
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That's all I was saying, and as I said, my brain just farted on the Tbox issue. I train headshots for fun, it's a skillset you can improve. In a real situation, I'm much more a fan of 2-1, either high or low. The hip box has a lot of blood flow as well. I had a friend die from a femoral shot. He was pretty much done when he hit the ground.
edit: also, if you shatter the pelvis, he isn't standing anymore.
Sorry to hear about your friend. That’s really sucks.

Yeah, pelvic shots are brutal. Not necessarily instantly incapacitating, but almost 100% chance of being removed from the fight.
 
I highly recommend the StrelokPro app. For me, red dots and simple SFP LPVOs without stadia lines are zeroed at 50 yards for 5.56. It gives me near POA/POI out to 225-250 yards, which works in almost any possible scenario in New England. For scopes with more stadia lines or BDC, I plug it into Strelok to see what the holds will be. I choose what I like best. For things like the Razor, it’s still a 50 yard zero. For the ACOG, it’s a 100 meter zero.

I second Strelok Pro. IT's a fantastic app, worth what little i paid for it many times over.
 
On 6x each chevron/harsh mark is 4 MOA so if you zero your scope on 6X @ 100 yards for +/dot (the dot covers 1/2 MOA) each line will raise your impact 4 MOA. Play with a balistic app with your sight heights and velocities to get an idea of how much 4 moa changes your "zero" for that has mark/ammo combo

Your old school zero of 2.5-3" high at 100 yards (my dad zeroed just about every rifle at poa/poi35 yards which will give the same results) for alot of cals will give you a decent PBR out to that 230-275 range for a 8" target. If your looking to hit a small X ring you need to learn how to adjust your turrets. to keep the impacts close to the X ring.

basic comes ups to get you close from your 100 yard zero. 100-200 +2 min, 200-300 +3 min , 300-600 =12 min. this is rough , it will get you on target where you can fine tune from there.

have fun.
1606350957292.png
 
For my Tavor X95 I zeroed it at 100 yards and then just saw where it hit at 50. With my setup (Meprolight Mepro 21 with Mepro MX3) it was a little over an inch low, not enough to worry about since I don’t expect to use it for bullseye shooting. ;) Of course the Mepro sits way lower than that Viper.
 
Damn. It's been a long time. Isn't your average .223 set for 25/100 zero. If you zero at 25 you'll be on at 100??? It's been a while since I zero'd one in.

Nope. 25/300. LOL. I was close. ROFL!!!! I'd sight it in at either 50 or 100 in that case.


This. A 25 yard zero should be on at 100 and 50 should be on at 200 yards. There is really no reason to shoot a .223/5.56 any closer than 100 yards, especially with a scope or magnifying sight.

On page 8 and 9 of that manual tells you how to read the holdover with the MOA marks.
 
This. A 25 yard zero should be on at 100 and 50 should be on at 200 yards. There is really no reason to shoot a .223/5.56 any closer than 100 yards, especially with a scope or magnifying sight.

On page 8 and 9 of that manual tells you how to read the holdover with the MOA marks.
Owners manual?
 
For my Tavor X95 I zeroed it at 100 yards and then just saw where it hit at 50. With my setup (Meprolight Mepro 21 with Mepro MX3) it was a little over an inch low, not enough to worry about since I don’t expect to use it for bullseye shooting. ;) Of course the Mepro sits way lower than that Viper.
The 1x6 x24 not exactly meant for bulls eye shooting . Especially with capped turrets. PITA to keep taking caps off to adjust to the X.
Meant for zero it and forget it and get to know your reticle. Like old school 30/30 reticle and range finding with that.
To anyone who does not know your basic scope you can set up some graph paper and set your scope on a steady rest and see just how many Moa your scope lines , posts , spacings cover
 
50-200 for the win. I use it for my AR and my Tavor. I ended up going with a 25 yard zero on my Scorpion which keeps the impact within 2"+- for everything from point blank to 120 yards. Not sure there is much point in engaging targets with a 9mm PDW SBR out past 150 yards other than to keep heads down with suppressing fire. That's what the AR15/Tavor/AR10 is for...
 
Excerpt from IWI’s Operator Manual:

XI.100 Meter Zero
A. This method of zeroing is recommended
over the above mentioned BSZ for the
following reasons:
• Most engagements take place within 100 meters
• 100 meters and in is the critical range
• A shooter should be able to quickly and accurately
engage a threat within 100 meters without having to think about aiming off
The theory of the BSZ, 50 meters zero, depends on a man-sized target standing out in the open. If that target is concealed, prone, or only visible from the neck up then at 100 meters we are not able to use our sights on that target. Instead we have to change our aim approximately 4-5 inches lower to have the round impact in the right location
• If you zero at 100 meters then from 0 – 100 meters you will never be off by more than 3.9” for the barrel / sight relationship
• At 100 meters, you can take precision shots placing your sight exactly where you want your round to impact
• To achieve strikes at 200 & 300 meters you have to understand the trajectory
• At 200 meters, the bullet will drop roughly .6” from its height at 100 meters
• At 300 meters, the round will drop around 7-9” from its height at 100 meters
• Realistically the naked human eye is not able to pin point an adult lying prone with cover at 300 meters without using optics
 
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