I just edited my post, take a look at Ninjatek Armadillo, this might help you. As for what will survive what, I can't say, you are going to have to wade through the specs and see what will perform to your requirements.
Let's face it, the hotter environment you want your finished product to...
You can get away with printing higher temperature filaments at lower hot end temperatures at the expense of print speed. The issue is how long it has in the hot end to properly liquefy. So for example, if you are running your hot end at its maximum of 260C and you slow down the print to say...
Yep, but you get what you pay for, its a superior control board. As far as hot ends go, I am a purist, I machine my own stuff and I also use the duet force sensor for bed leveling. These work awesome as they use the actual nozzle touching the bed to register an extremely accurate Z position. I...
I have one and I like it for what it is. It uses the standard shellholders with pilots. I am not crazy about how the chuck mechanism works and I have modified it a bit. But, I use it a lot for .223 and .308 as well as .30-30 and it does work and is pretty consistant. The issue is the way it...
I always resize before I trim. When you resize the brass is when it will grow. Trimming before the resize wont work too well for consistant COAL. Thats the way I do it anyway.
Go to the hardware store and get a bathroom fan timer. Mine goes from 0 to 8 hours. You turn it and it tic-tocs down. They have 2 wires and mount in a single hole. I just drilled a 3/8" hole in my Lyman tumblers base and installed it, use wire nuts to connect it in series with the power wire...
I won't do either, it's too much assumtion of risk. If I screw up and someone gets hurt it's my fault and if someone else screws up, I have a bad day. Either way it's a bummer.