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  1. #2891
    NES Member andrew1220's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew1220 View Post
    I pulled some light 357 mag loads where I used bullseye powder under a lucky13 coated bullet and notice the powder was stuck/clung to the base of the bullet. I think the powder reacted with the "polymer" coating.

    Coincidence that I just happen to pull some of these loads and encountered a similar issue as that melted powder measure....



    Must be why some of the powder companies like Alliant are making new powders designed for polymer coated bullets. Sport Pistol for example. http://www.alliantpowder.com/product...rt-pistol.aspx
    .


  2. #2892
    Dealer 84ta406's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew1220 View Post
    .
    Just saw that in the other thread, I don't usually use coated, mainly just plated and FMJ, but I have some Bayous coated bullets I loaded about a year ago that I got free. I'll have to go pull a few.

  3. #2893

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    N320 definitely doesn't stick to Ibejiheads coated bullets.

  4. #2894
    NES Member andrew1220's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bill o View Post
    N320 definitely doesn't stick to Ibejiheads coated bullets.
    I figured N320 (being a single bsss powder) probably wouldn't. I need to pull my blue bullet + N320 loads just to see.


  5. #2895

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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael J. Spangler View Post
    https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=300510

    this is not the original that I read but It gets to the same point. I would imagine it all depends on how dirty your brass was before tumbling of course.
    UZI2 did you test with known dirty cases?
    No, I used clean cases (the ammo was .223/5.56) with the usual dark staining residue that remains inside when using a vibratory bowl, not overtly noticeable dirty carbon.

    Given that I do not use dirty cases, I think my methods are sound. And that's also why I posted that YMMV.

    Why would any reloader use dirty brass? That in it itself is a flawed process. Bad for the powder and bad for the dies. I also don't clean primer pockets except on .50bmg.

    My usual after loading tumble is about 15-20 minutes and only on rifle loads.

    I use all carbide dies and do not lube any pistol cases.
    Socialism in general has a record of failure so blatant that only an intellectual could ignore or evade it. -Thomas Sowell

  6. #2896
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uzi2 View Post
    No, I used clean cases (the ammo was .223/5.56) with the usual dark staining residue that remains inside when using a vibratory bowl, not overtly noticeable dirty carbon.

    Given that I do not use dirty cases, I think my methods are sound. And that's also why I posted that YMMV.

    Why would any reloader use dirty brass? That in it itself is a flawed process. Bad for the powder and bad for the dies. I also don't clean primer pockets except on .50bmg.

    My usual after loading tumble is about 15-20 minutes and only on rifle loads.

    I use all carbide dies and do not lube any pistol cases.
    I should have worded that better. I didn’t mean dirty cases I meant previously used cases that have carbon built up inside them.
    Or in other words non virgin brass.
    Spangler Custom Knives

  7. #2897

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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael J. Spangler View Post
    I should have worded that better. I didn’t mean dirty cases I meant previously used cases that have carbon built up inside them.
    Or in other words non virgin brass.
    Some of mine were probably twice fired but I usually try to keep them separated as 1-2-3 reloads.

    The pistol brass is usually cleaner inside due to the wider mouth.
    Socialism in general has a record of failure so blatant that only an intellectual could ignore or evade it. -Thomas Sowell

  8. #2898
    NES Member SJan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew1220 View Post
    I figured N320 (being a single bsss powder) probably wouldn't. I need to pull my blue bullet + N320 loads just to see.
    I'd wager its more of a bullet thing than a powder thing. Lots of coated bullet manufactures are using sub-par coating, and reloaders are probably better off using bare lead than shitty coated bullets.
    TY73127

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  9. #2899

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    Quote Originally Posted by SJan View Post
    I'd wager its more of a bullet thing than a powder thing. Lots of coated bullet manufactures are using sub-par coating, and reloaders are probably better off using bare lead than shitty coated bullets.
    I don't see where powder sticking to the coating would matter much. Its still inside the casing and its going to burn once ignited.

    I've seen it stick to regular lubed bullets as well and never had a problem with them.

    Am I missing something here?
    Socialism in general has a record of failure so blatant that only an intellectual could ignore or evade it. -Thomas Sowell

  10. #2900
    NES Member andrew1220's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJan View Post
    I'd wager its more of a bullet thing than a powder thing. Lots of coated bullet manufactures are using sub-par coating, and reloaders are probably better off using bare lead than shitty coated bullets.
    Yeah lucky13 doesn't make the best bullets (some irregular shapes bullets with lead exposed). I bought them almost 2 years ago because they were (at the time) the cheapest 38 cal and 44 cal coated bullets I could find...will not be buying them again. I'll spend the extra pennies per bullet on better bullets next time.


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